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Hamm’s Scene-o-Rama: Beer Sign Bliss
By Special Guest BloggerToday’s guest blogger is breweriana collector Barry Travis who runs the web site IBuyOldBeer.com: Preserving the Beers of Yesteryear. You can find him on Show & Tell, too.
The Hamm’s Scene-o-Rama was a sign ahead of its time. Made by Lakeside Plastics in Minneapolis in the late 1960s through early 1970s, it features an outdoor scene with a waterfall and river that appear to flow, as well as a smoking campfire. The motion effect comes an outer, semi-transparent scroll and an inner, vertically lined background that gives the water (and campfire smoke) the illusion of flowing.
“Many urban legends surround the Scene-o-Rama.”
There are two sizes, small (which is about 3-feet across) and large (5-feet across). The large came in two versions, one with a static, non-moving scene and one with the rotating scroll. The signs all have dimensional, dark brown roof shingles above the scene. I’ve seen people assume all larger signs have motion, so always double-check by unscrewing the casing and inspect the inner workings before you buy one. There are other variations, such as a “round logo” Scene-o-Rama, which has the words Hamm’s beer in a round, white logo panel. This version is harder to find than the typical square logo version.
Many urban legends surround the Scene-o-Rama, like a disgruntled artist hiding a profanity somewhere in the artwork of the Northwoods scroll because he got stiffed on payment. Or, these signs are worth thousands of dollars and are incredibly rare. It may be that I’m in Minnesota, and am constantly seeking old beer stuff, but these signs aren’t rare. Desirable, yes. Rare, no.
Buying: Unless these signs were boxed up or displayed in a non-bar environment their entire life, they probably sustained some sort of wear or age during their decades of service. Check the underside of the case: Too many people underestimate the weight of a Scene-o-Rama, and the case can crack easily when picked up. Check the roof panels for cracking or corner breakage. How can you tell if its been in a smoky bar? The white side panels will be yellowed as well as the Hamm’s logo panel. Some Armor All will whiten them up. The case removes easily—take the screws out and inspect the guts of your sign. You can clean the logo panel from the front using Q-tips to get between the black lattice. Inspect the scene carefully. Horizontal scratches are commonplace because Lakeside Plastic used screws to hold the clear acrylic cover over the scene—grrr! If possible, buy your sign in person. Internet auctions will generally disappoint, whether it’s through definition (“Mint!”) or delivery (“I thought I packed it well … sorry!”).
Selling: You may be tempted by the bucks these get online, but there’s a 50/50 chance that the delivery service will damage, if not destroy, your sign.The insurance claim process is as fun as a root canal. Many of these signs have survived 40 years intact, only to be trashed in transit. Don’t say you weren’t warned …
Replacement parts are available for these signs, and there’s no better feeling than rescuing and restoring an old Hamm’s sign back to its original glory. The motion is truly mesmerizing, and brings back memories of sitting with my dad at our local hamburger joint as a kid. From the land of sky blue waters, I’m Barry the beerguy.
Behind the Scenes at the Smithsonian
I remember these signs from “The East Locust Street Tap” in Davenport Iowa (circa 1973).
hello barry–thank you for the information. i have to ask the obvious question: what is the value of the sign described if in “mint” condition?
thank you–cheers!
One like I have sold for 1200 via online auction,plus another 80 to ship it.Theres a 50/50 chance it arrives intact though.
as of saturday 5-7-2011
proud new owner of a scene-a-rama :)
Thats GREAT Heath! Spray some Armor All on the case and shingles,it will really improve the look and shine.
The one from my bar in Chicago said Hamm’s beer on draught in the white rectangle. The distributor told me at the time that there were under 20 made that said “on draught”. Is this accurate? My sign now resides with a friend in Madison WI.
They were placed in accounts that had Hamm’s on draft (or tap) They make replacement panels for them now,so theres not really a difference.There is a ROUND logo version however,that is pretty hard to find. (and a spanish version too!)
I worked for Holiday stores in Minnesota in the ’60′s and asked the grocery manager if he could get me any beer signs for my basement rec. room. This is the one he came up with, new, I believe in 1967. Still love it and was displayed in our homes from ’67 to 2005. Still boxed from our last move but asked my sons to get it hung in our current town home.
I have a buddy that collects Holiday stuff,Paul-too funny.Has their pop/oil cans,point of sale merchandise,etc. Wow-what a great story on your Hamms sign.Even today,they are mesmerizing and get all sorts of comments.
I have the small three foot motion sign – during the cycle it makes some occasional noise – how do i quiet the sign? Jim
Remove the outer casing,put some lubricant on the bearings of the inner rollers which continuously turn while the sign is on.(WD-40 with the red straw spray extension works GREAT,so does 4 in 1 household oil,silicone lubricant,etc)
Hi Barry, I was left a Hamms Scene-o-rama, smaller 3′ version. The motor was not running and the left light tube was not lit, just the scene light was lit. I took the case off and tapped the motor and it ran and the left light came on. I ran it for about 3 hours and it worked perfectly. I turned it off for the night and nnow the motor will not come back on even after tapping the motor case. The left light comes on slow after about 30 seconds after plugging in. Any advise would be appreciated. Could it be a ballast or the motor or?
HELP! I have a Hamm’s Beer scene a- rama motion beer sign that is giving me fits! The motor works great, but the light bulb on the left side of the sign that lights up the Hamm’s Beer, only lights at about 50%. I purchased a new igniter and replaced the old but the bulb won’t even light at all with the new igniter. So, I put the old igniter back in and again when plugged in it only goes to about 50% of its lighting potential. New bulb does the same thing.
NOW HERE’S THE KICKER! If I wiggle the bulb or adjust it in its cradle it will go to 100% and stay there until unplugged. It’s almost like there is a short in the cradle but……I’m at a loss! I’ve tried taping the bulb into place once it’s in its happy place, but again once unplugged and plugged back in it goes back to the 50%. Do I need an original igniter? If so, where do I find one? Any suggestions would be very appreciated! Thank you, Steve
Have you ever seen the hidden message on the sign-o-rama if you have where is it? also what do you think the value of it is? its been hanging in the basement for 30 years atleast in good shape and works.
I have.After the two birch trees in the water.You can make out the F pretty well,but the rest of it requires some imagination.The value of any scenorama I haven’t SEEN in person can range from 150 to 1500.
can the scene-a-rama motor be rebuilt?
thanks
Parts replaced? Yes.New scrolls,yep.Roof pieces..um hmmm.Outer chalet cases? Haven’t seen them done yet.A friend of mine thats a certified mechanic does as good of job as I’ve seen.Buy from him and they are “like new” and should run silent and smooth.
Hi Barry:I have the Hamms 1965 Rippler and need a motor. Jim at Brewskilights only has the Scenarama motor. Where can I get one? John