Posted 9 years ago
CardinalLady
(66 items)
Small chair we purchased on the road, other pictures are in previous posting. My friends suggested I post more specific ones, which I am glad to do. I do not think it is an antique, perhaps handmade - there appears to be a peg through the back leg into the back of the seat. This could be foux - ha! I appreciate any ideas!
That's wood peg/dowel construction, same as mine. (And a "plus"). Your back slates a more ornate than mine. I've never researched mine, as have never thought of selling them, so can't give an idea of value. Looks orig. from construction style but don't know if anybody has been reproducing these in this quality recently. Beautiful chair as mine are (If I could just keep the sugar-birds off of them). The "caning" looks like somebody knew what they were doing, if replaced.
Blunderbuss2, thank you so much for this recent comment. I loved it when I saw it in a church consignment store. I just wish I had at least 2 like it! I can see why you like yours! Thanks again and may you be blessed.
Card, I just posted pics of one of my chairs & showing the pegs. In my past, I have made a l-o-t of antique copies as well as counters etc.. Generally, I have found it cheaper & easier to use than screws & wood plugs to fake real pegs & have a much higher quality that people appreciate
This style was a staple of very late 19th- early 20th century production.
They are very common. Yours looks to be typical of the period-- the underside of the seat shows considerable age.
The left side looks almost like a tiger maple-- while the right does not. It would be odd to have tiger maple on this chair. It may signal a repair of one side. Are the pegs just on that side or are both sides pegged in the same manner?
Also the seat has been recaned.
scott
Excellent observations Scott. I was keeping quiet so I didn't catch hell again. Your turn to catch it.
Hey scott & fhr. I don't know N. Amer. woods anymore. Would "ya'll" take a look at the similar chair I just posted & give me your opinions of what wood was used. I always assumed maple or hickory. I'd appreciate it.
Scott, thank you very much for your information and question. Both sides have a peg, but one looks a little different from the other one, but still rather round. I had thought one looked like tiger maple, so was glad to hear that, also. Yes, there are distinct marks of recaning. Thanks!
Fhrjr2, I would not give your hell! I was not the "one." Thanks for your comment!
No, you didn't give me hell and I usually deserve it because of my sarcasm so no sleep lost. Pegging seats is not a common practice when chairs are first built. Pegging the crest board and stretchers is far more common. Seat pegging is more commonly done when there is a need to repair the seat. Fat butts make weak seats as do kids leaning back in them. You won't see much pegging today because staples and glue are quicker. I am building raised panels drawers and doors and pegging everything together. No glue no screws and no nails. It will live way longer than I do. Not feasible from a money point of view but I am retired and it is for us. Wife punches the mortises I cut the tenons and we peg them.
By the way, your picture #2 seems to show vertical saw marks with burns. That is an interesting point. The blade was either dull or the wood pushed through it to fast and it scorched. More interesting is the fact it was never cleaned up so that it didn't show after it was finished. The grain of the wood runs the opposite direction so that only leaves saw marks. Small shops years ago didn't always clean things up well because of the lack of materials because of the war efforts.
Fhr, I'm retired to. I just don't remember what from! All 5 of my orig. chairs were pegged & none ever repaired. I enjoy using pegs & always pleased with the finished results. I find it easier than drilling diff. size holes for screw & fake plug (which always looks fake & cost money). It does take waiting for the glue to dry, but worth the wait. There are some ways to do it without glue & waiting but permanent & can't be removed without damage. I'm referring to the inside bell style mortise with a cut & wedge in the spindle that is driven in that is hard to make & can't be removed without destroying the end of the spindle or peg.
Blunder = If I understand what you are saying you are looking up from the bottom and seeing the wedge in the bottom of the spindle. It can be removed quite quickly with a dremel tool and the proper size diamond burr. I use a flex shaft on my dremel because it is like using a pen and easy to control. If you are going to remove a peg use an undersized bit then a pick. DO NOT ever try removing a peg from an old post and beam building. They require special treatment and I have seen skulls split open from doing it wrong. Furniture is a much smaller scale but it you know how it was built you can take it apart. Keep your fingers clear when you pop the joint because some of them do pop with a force. If you plan to put a new wedge in make it from good dry wood. Green will shrink and fall out.
I was referring to blind holes. Once in, damage has to be done to remove. The bottom of the blind hole is what drives the wedge into the spindle & expand the end. I'm not sure you understand the system I'm referring to.
Know why really old covered bridges were covered? Hint: not for people to get out of the rain.