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Cased .45 Cal. Percussion Derringer

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Posted 2 years ago


(83 items)

Built from a kit in the 80’s and cased with accessories.
The kit contained unfinished parts for the pistol only, to
be shaped and fitted, the stock about 30% oversize but
well inletted. This was carved to fit with a sanding drum
on a Dremel. Metal parts were brought to size with files,
and all finished with sandpaper. The stock is stained walnut
with a hand rubbed tung oil finish. Birchwood Casey bluing.
The English casing was added piece by piece, the most work
here refinishing and fitting the case. The pistol has a return
spring on the trigger, not supplied in the kits, which I added.
Thanks for looking, Jim


  1. blunderbuss2 blunderbuss2, 2 years ago
    Nice job. Good close fitting of metal to wood. You describe a common trigger problem. Two reasons & cures for that. There is a tang from the sear that protrudes over the trigger. As the sear has a return spring, it also acts on the trigger to return it via that tang & it has to be able to travel all the way down to its stop.
    1st possible: The hole that the sear tang goes thru isn't deep enough on the bottom side & stops the tang movement. (most common cause) The bottom side of that hole is usually even with the bottom of the lockplate & recess.
    2nd possible: Trigger is not seated deep enough. If you want to avoid more woodwork, you can have a tiny bead welded to the top of the trigger where it pushes on the tang & file it down until there is very little clearance between that area & the sear tang. Do you shoot it?
    My guess is that you have way too much trigger play fore & aft when you just want a tiny bit.
  2. jwendell222, 2 years ago
    Hello, thanks to everyone for the love. Best wishes, Jim
  3. jwendell222, 2 years ago
    Hi Blunderbuss, thanks for your comment. I built five of these kits, all had some play in the triggers varying from .030” to .084” The slack didn’t affect the firing evolution but I didn’t like the play and added springs. Regards, Jim

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