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Very Early Miriam Haskell? Before Hess?

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Elisabethan's loves144 of 5606My favorite Miriam Haskell Zenith "World's Fair" / Glass Rod Radio / Model-6-D-317 / Circa 1939
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    Posted 6 years ago

    critchpics
    (3 items)

    Disclaimer: I am not a jewelry collector, just someone who's been selling some family stuff on Ebay.
    The necklace that I'm questioning is brass with blue celluloid flowers.
    Length: 17"
    Diameter of flowers: 3/4 inch

    It was in my mother's jewelry box. She was born in 1926, so it would have belonged to one of her female relatives. Unfortunately, she is no longer alive, so I can't ask her.

    I was randomly Googling to try to find some information about the necklace when I found some early Miriam Haskell jewelry that had the same type of flower motif and style of wire mount. I read a bit more.

    Why it probably isn't Haskell:
    -- It isn't particularly ornate or substantial
    -- It has a spring catch, but with a thumb tab. http://idragonrider.com/auctions/Haskell/ relates that there is debate about the thumb tab.

    Why it might be Haskell:

    The celluloid flowers are wired into the backs. According to the website Very Vintage:
    Very early Haskell pieces had as backs metal plates that were pierced with small round holes at regular intervals (NOT mesh). Beads and pearls were then wired by hand directly on to this base. This back was then left uncovered, giving the piece an ''unfinished'' look. By the 1930''s the back was being covered by a flat metal plate, of which Gordon and Pamfiloff say ''This metal plate is a key identifier for pre-1943 Haskell jewelry" (page 44).http://www.veryvintage.com/authenticating-miriam-haskell-pieces?chapter=0

    Also if it dates to the 1920s could it's absence of ornamentation mean that it was created by Haskell before her partnership with Hess?

    I'm deeply appreciative for whatever insight you can give me.

    Mystery Solved
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    Comments

    1. katherinescollections katherinescollections, 6 years ago
      Beautiful necklace. And good research. There are a few people on here who know about MH jewelry, they might be able to help. Good luck. :)
    2. valentino97 valentino97, 6 years ago
      Very pretty - I've seen these great flowers on similar mesh bases in yellow, red, blue, pink - mostly just sold as Czech when they are threaded simply. I love this color - would like to hear more from other MH collectors. Good luck! :)
    3. shareurpassion shareurpassion, 6 years ago
      I don't believe this to be M.H. at all. Maybe a Napier, but that's questionable too.
    4. critchpics, 6 years ago
      Thank you for your comments and encouragement. I'm on a steep learning curve. Shareurpassion I've looked into Napier, and couldn't find any pieces that were remotely similar. Valentino97, your comment made me rethink my approach. I need to do more research on the findings, and the origins of cagework beadery. The internet identifies the technique as Haskell's, so I think I'd better hit the library. Nothing I like better than a good mystery!
    5. DrFluffy DrFluffy, 6 years ago
      Beautiful necklace. I am with Valentino.

    6. critchpics, 6 years ago
      Thank you so much DrFluffy and Valentino for pointing me in the right direction.
      I just found the following:
      http://www.costumejewel.com/productDetail.php?id=2405&item=Czech_Pink_Flowers_Brass_Chains_Bracelet

      Still digging into the origins of this beading technique.
    7. SEAN68 SEAN68, 6 years ago
      beautiful postings on both pieces of jewelry!!
    8. Bluboi Bluboi, 6 years ago
      You are correct that Haskell used flowers of this type in her jewelry. I suspect they were purchased in Czechoslovakia, so you will also see the flowers used by other designers. Haskell also wired the beads and findings to pierced plates such as you have shown (great pictures!). But Haskell sold to high-end clientele -- their jewelry was quite expensive, so leaving the wiring showing (and potentially scratching the skin) was a no-no. The beads between the flowers are also too unfinished -- Haskell would have used a fully round bead, not a stamping.

      I have several reference albums available for research that might be useful to you. If you go to http://www.imageevent.com/bluboi and scroll down the album list, you can find the Haskell materials. Hope this helps.
    9. critchpics, 6 years ago
      Bluboi, of course you're right about the piece lacking finish for the Haskell market. Thank you for the link. On such a steep learning curve! :-)
    10. Bluboi Bluboi, 6 years ago
      Hah! I know what you mean -- I am too! I am always happy to help on Haskell questions.

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