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Enameled Flower Silver Necklace - Fahrner/Hermann Haussler?

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Art Nouveau Jewelry56 of 269Theodor Fahrner Eric Kleinhempel Amethyst Pendant / NecklaceArt nouveau domed plique à jour wings hair ornament. Part 1.
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    Posted 4 years ago

    (15 items)

    This is a necklace I purchased a couple months ago. The workmanship looks like Hermann Haussler to me but does not have any hallmarks unfortunately. Although I have not been able to find any similar necklaces like this. I included two signed pieces in my Fahrner collection by Hermann Haussler. Any thoughts?

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    1. kyratango kyratango, 4 years ago
      Woahhh! Serious collectors pieces there!

      I saw these rounded flowers on a brooch attributed to Hermann Haussler:
      Photo 26 of 69, Fahrner;jsessionid=72vbl4t2s1.dog_s?p=25&n=1&m=-1&c=3&l=0&w=1&s=0&z=2

      Bluboi is a CW member, she hopefully will say more :-)
    2. Enameled_Beetle Enameled_Beetle, 4 years ago
      Thanks Kyratango :) I looked at the link and the flowers are similar. Blubloi's Fahrner opal necklace has very similar silver links to my necklace.
      Photo 36 of 69, Fahrner:
    3. nutsabotas6 nutsabotas6, 4 years ago
      I think they're Beautiful !
    4. Enameled_Beetle Enameled_Beetle, 4 years ago
      Thanks nutsabotas6!!
    5. valentino97 valentino97, 4 years ago
      Very pretty and your pictures are great :-)
    6. Peasejean55 Peasejean55, 4 years ago
      Oh wow, these are wonderful.
    7. Peasejean55 Peasejean55, 4 years ago
      Hi enameled _Beetle I see you looked at this necklace of mine. Looking at the enamel flowers on your necklace they do look very similar. I'm really enjoying your beautiful pieces, thanks for sharing.
    8. Enameled_Beetle Enameled_Beetle, 4 years ago
      Thanks so much valentino97! :)

      Thank you very much Peasejean55! I did look at your necklace, it is gorgeous. You have so many beautiful pieces also on your page, I look forward to seeing more :)
    9. Jewels1900 Jewels1900, 4 years ago
      Yok, so here's my thinking on these Haussler enamels.

      You know Fahrner made several ranges of jewellery. There were the studio pieces which were exhibited at at the Salons and Design Fairs. Then there was the range they made and retailed though jewellers, mainly aimed at the burgeoning middle classes who had money to spend and were interested in cutting edge design.

      It's my thinking that they made at least a 3rd range which featured these Haussler style enamels and were often made of silver plate, have a more mass produced finish and which are not signed.

      I've only seen brooches and little pots that fit with an unsigned more mass-produced range, with the Haussler flowers & Haussler colours. (I have one in my collection). But I have seen quite a few over the years.

      I'm not sure if that fits with your chain or not, it's just what I've observed over time and it's a theory that consistent with other jewellery firms who were operating at the time.

      Lovely items BTW.
    10. Enameled_Beetle Enameled_Beetle, 4 years ago
      Hi Jewels1900,
      Thanks so much for your informative response! I totally agree about the three ranges of Fahrner jewelry. I have seen quite a few examples, especially of Hermann Haussler. I think my chain may be more of the second range as it is made out of silver (tested), I have looked in the Fahrner book and the silver links match many of the chains/necklaces made from 1901-1910. I wonder if maybe the clasp was replaced...
    11. Bluboi Bluboi, 4 years ago
      Hello Enameled Beetle,

      Kyra pinged me about your lovely necklace, so I thought I would add some additional information about Haussler and Fahrner. Sorry for the long epistle below. I am synthesizing information from the must-own book "Theodor Fahrner Jewelry: Between Avantgarde and Tradition."

      Firstly, I agree with the comments attributing this necklace to Haussler, including Jewels1900 information on different lines of jewelry at different price points (which is quite typical of many jewelry firms both in the past and present). I have a number of pieces with these cell enamel flowers, some on base metal and some on sterling, some signed and many not signed. One of my favorites is this necklace, circa 1911:

      Fahrner, himself was extremely interested in both studio jewelry and also machine-made jewelry and was known for joining artistic design with machine production, in particular to enhance the reputation of the Pforzheim jewelry industry. Fahrner created the Studio for Goldsmithing Work in circa 1902 and employed goldsmiths to design individual pieces in gold (which was extremely expensive and not suitable for series production).

      In order to balance the high cost of his gold studio, Fahrner started a silver goods factory, circa 1903, which produced a variety of of consumer items (e.g., buttons, belt buckles, tie pins cigarette cases, etc.). His silver goods were extremely popular and financially successful and over time, Fahrner started to incorporate (as he termed it) "artist-jewelry" as part of its lines and designs by his group of studio artists started to appear. By 1906, it was declared that every piece made by the firm of Theodor Fahrner was stamped with TF, but if Haussler is an example, it does not appear to be applied uniformly, unless this only applied to his high-end jewelry.

      The following businesses formed the foundation for the Fahrner "artist-jewelry" experiment:
      1. Plated articles, especially pins, which were sold very successfully in England
      2. Ring manufacture (until 1904) (these rings are extremely rare)
      3. Studio for goldsmithing work
      4. Jewelry and silver goods factory
      5. "Fahrner Jewelery" manufacture

      Second, Theodor Fahrner was VERY atypical as he allowed his jewelry designers to sign their pieces. Again, this was inconsistently applied but you can find TF jewelry which includes individual artist signatures (name or initials). I have to admit I have rarely seen any of the pieces artist signed -- I just checked my collection and have one piece...

      In the years between 1908 and 1910, Hermann Haussler, a staff designer for Fahrner, turned to the stylistic features of the Wiener Werkstatte. He designed a group of cell enamel floral pieces. The design consisted of breaking up the metal surface with filigree wire to produce a pictorial surface with the "pits" filled in with enamel, usually centered and surrounded by a regular or irregular beaten surface. By 1914, the floral motif had taken over the entire surface and the finely enameled frame design, which usually repeated the colors of the flowers, now gave way to a simple rim. This jewelry was first shown in the marketing literature in 1911 and was sold successfully until the Fahrner firm was sold in 1919. For some wonderful examples of Haussler's floral designs see pages 98 and 99 in the Fahrner book.
    12. Enameled_Beetle Enameled_Beetle, 4 years ago
      Thanks so much for your response! I started collecting Fahrner jewelry a couple years ago and have been fortunate to amass a moderate collection. Most of my pieces are from the art deco period so my knowledge is better with that period than the earlier pieces. I agree that the Fahrner book is very useful and a great resource. I also have some of the original brochures and an original drawing, which have also helped my research/collecting.
    13. Bluboi Bluboi, 4 years ago
      How lucky you are! I especially love the idea of the brochures and WOW -- an original drawing. One of the early things most interesting to me is that the iconic Fahrner Deco pieces were not his at all since he died in 1919 and the firm was sold to Gustav Braendle.
    14. Enameled_Beetle Enameled_Beetle, 4 years ago
      I agree, it is interesting that the art deco pieces were under Gustav Braendle, I wonder if the company would have taken the same route if Theodor Fahrner would have been alive during the 1920s.
    15. kyratango kyratango, 4 years ago
      Hi! I found this interesting video about enamelling, notice the Haussler/Fahrner piece!
    16. Bluboi Bluboi, 4 years ago
      Great video! LOVE the George Hunt piece.
    17. Enameled_Beetle Enameled_Beetle, 4 years ago
      Thanks for sharing the video! :) She has some great pieces!
    18. Jewels1900 Jewels1900, 4 years ago
      That is a tantalisingly annoying video. We need to see more of Peggy's collection!

      And yes that Hunt piece is a cracker, love the colours, it's a miniature work of art.

      I thought I posted yesterday my thoughts that the necklace may have originally been a guard chain. The double layered style is unusual & the chain overlapping the enamel panels could rub & cause damage so I wonder if it would have been designed like that.

      If it was converted a link or clip with a mark on it could have been lost.
    19. Enameled_Beetle Enameled_Beetle, 4 years ago
      I had wondered the same thing, that someone might have wanted to make a longer chain/necklace into a shorter one and in doing so, the mark has been lost.
    20. Bluboi Bluboi, 4 years ago
      I personally haven't seen any Fahrner marks on the chain. Jewels or EB, have you seen marks on the chain?
    21. Enameled_Beetle Enameled_Beetle, 4 years ago
      I think I have only one Fahrner chain that has a mark but it is an enamel one from the late 1920s.
    22. Jewels1900 Jewels1900, 4 years ago
      I've seen marks on the ring for the clip on chains but nowhere else.

      Interestingly I've just bought a Farhner necklace (in the last 10 minutes) and it didn't say it was signed (wasn't attributed) so I'll be interested to see if it's marked.

      It's the same pendant on page 136 of the Farhner book (which I just had out this morning as a result of this discussion - recognised the necklace immediately!), but with a single drop & no gilding.

      Also I did just notice that there's article in the back of the Farhner book on the relationship between TF & MBCo! I've not read it yet but it appears to discuss the occurrence of both marks.
    23. Bluboi Bluboi, 4 years ago
      OK, I have looked at all of my Fahrner. No necklaces have any marks on the chain. This Deco one is marked on the slide of the clasp:

      and this one is marked on the thingie that the chain goes through (senior moment, I cannot remember what it is called!):

      I have 3 bracelets: each is signed on the box clasp. One pair of earrings and they are signed on the earring, not on the clip mechanism. 2 rings, one signed on the band, one unsigned (though it came with a matching brooch which is signed). Lots of brooches, some unsigned, but if there is a signature, it is on the back of the brooch, not on the pinstem. A pair of buttons, signed on the back.

      Jewels, the write-up in the back on Fahrner and MBCO is interesting. There is also quite a bit about other designers copying Fahrner, or Fahrner designers working for other companies and repeating their designs.
    24. Enameled_Beetle Enameled_Beetle, 4 years ago
      Jewels1900- Those are always fun, you will have to let us know if it ends up being signed or not.

      Bluboi- I also looked at my pieces, I have one similar to your piece
      that is marked on the clasp and my Erich Kleinhempel is also marked on the clasp
      On that same page, the brooch/pendant is marked on the pin stem. Most of my brooches (if they are signed) on marked on the back of the brooch. I also have a carnelian necklace
      that is marked on the links, which I think is unusual but fortunate since the other marks are worn. All of my earrings are also marked on the back of the earring and rings are all stamped on the band.
    25. Jewels1900 Jewels1900, 4 years ago
      So I finally got around to reading that chapter and also the chapter in Becker that it referred to. That's all very cool that MBCo bought the pieces from Farhner for export to England. If they were already made up, they were stamped with the TF mark, then MBCo marked them. If made to order, no TF stamp.

      My necklace came and it's marked sterling and what appears to be a tiny TF on the bolt ring, but it's hard to tell. It's a nice thing, very WW feeling.
    26. Enameled_Beetle Enameled_Beetle, 4 years ago
      That's interesting about MBCo and Fahrner. The necklace sounds like it was a great find!
    27. Jewels1900 Jewels1900, 3 years ago
    28. Enameled_Beetle Enameled_Beetle, 3 years ago
      Thanks for sharing, it is interesting to see pieces from Fahrner's other ranges.

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