No one knows for sure, but some historians speculate that the word “sterling” is a corruption of “Easterlings,” the German silversmiths brought to England by Henry II to share their silversmithing knowledge with the British. What we do know is that the sterling standard of 92.5 percent silver and 7.5 alloy, which tends to be mostly copper, originated around 1300 in England with Edward I.
Ever since, the Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths and Silversmiths has enforced this standard. The Worshipful Company derives its authority from the Goldsmiths’ Hall, whose name is the origin of the word “hallmark.”
Because England used silver money until 1921, the crown relied on strict enforcement and heavy punishments to ensure the quality of British silver. Without these standards, silversmiths could debase currency by melting down coins, reducing their silver content, and then passing them off as pure. Hallmarks guaranteed a standard of quality, and the force of the law gave weight to the standard. Indeed, in 1757, those found guilty of imitating hallmarks were sentenced to death.
Each piece of British silver had at least four marks that told its story: the standard mark, town mark, date letter, and maker’s mark. These marks were stamped on finished pieces when craftsmen brought their products to the local assay office, where officials tested the metal content of each product.
The sterling silver standard mark guaranteed that the silver content of a piece was at least 92.5 percent. In 1300, this mark was a leopard’s head. In 1478, the head was modified to include a crown. In 1544, during a time of coin debasement under Henry VIII, the mark was changed to a profile of a lion walking left, known as lion passant. This mark was changed again in 1820 to an uncrowned lion head.
For a short interim starting in 1697, the crown required silverware to be 95.8 percent pure silver, rather than 92.5 percent. This requirement was known as the Britannia standard, and the goal of its implementation was to prevent silversmiths after the Restoration from melting down coins (which were sterling standard) and using that to make their wares.
Britannia silver bore the profile of a lion’s head in place of the sterling mark. This higher-quality silver was softer and easier to work with, but the standard was phased out i...
The town mark indicated the origin of a piece; a large number of different town marks are known today. London used a leopard’s head, but marks elsewhere were often inconsistent. Thus, unique or rare marks often make a piece more collectible.
The date letter mark was first used in London in 1478 and is still enforced by the Worshipful Company today. The date mark indicates the year the piece was assayed—usually but not necessarily the same year as it was produced—with a letter of the alphabet, which changed every year. On special occasions, like the 25th wedding anniversary of George V and Queen Mary in 1934 and 1935, silversmiths would sometimes add an extra mark to commemorate the event.
The maker’s mark became mandatory in 1363 to ensure that a buyer could trace a bad or faulty good back to its maker. Because literacy rates were so low at the time, this mark started out as a sign or symbol, but this was changed to the first two letters of the maker’s surname in the late 16th century. In the 1720s, the mark changed again to the maker’s first and last initial.
Aside from these four marks, pieces from 1784 to 1890 also included a portrait of the current ruler. This mark proved to the government that the piece’s duty had been paid—a most important consideration given England’s massive debt following the American Revolution. This duty was repealed in 1890, and the sovereign mark disappeared along with it. Additionally, silver imported from 1867 onward had an “F” in a shield stamped on it to indicate its foreign origin.
Although marks tell a great deal of information about a piece, collectors should beware of fake marks. Whereas silversmiths used steel dies to punch their marks, forgers often used brass instead, resulting in a blurry mark. These forged marks are sometimes known as soft punches.
Stylistically, British silver followed the trends of the art world around it. In the 17th and early 18th centuries, Baroque was all the rage, with heavily ornamented and elaborate pieces. From 1702 to 1727, styles shifted to the much more restrained and austere Queen Anne and Early Georgian styles.
From then until 1837, the Rococo style took hold, with its organic, asymmetrical, and curved designs. The year 1837 marked the ascendancy of Queen Victoria and the rise of the Victorian silver, which was extravagant and heavily ornamented. In the 1890s, the whiplash curves and organic, asymmetrical shapes of Art Nouveau began to replace the Victorian style, with Tiffany & Co. producing high-quality vases, pitchers, and other types of hollowware.
Art Nouveau itself gave way in the mid-1910s to Art Deco, with its more geometric, stylized designs. Since 1945, the design of decorative and functional silver objects has been mostly modern, incorporating sculptural, organic, and abstract shapes.
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Holiday shopping in the 94515 ZIP codeNapa Valley Register, December 17th
For the cyclist -- and there are many in the area -- there is a sweet selection of mugs and bread plates decorated with stylized bicycles. Numerous stylish jewelry for women appeal to young and old. Initialized pendants start at $37 with a sterling...Read more
Ask An Expert: DIY Gift IdeasThe Daily Meal, December 16th
Shoppers can find not only all the basic beads and beading materials, but also a huge selection of unique and antique beads from around the world. The knowledgeable and friendly staff is always ... Beadazzled has sterling claps, sterling ear parts...Read more
Shop local: A guide to the perfect Christmas gifts, right around the cornerLas Vegas Sun, December 15th
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How to Start a Fine Jewelry CollectionForbes, December 12th
At 12 years old, Heller found herself in a small village in the Maghrebi nation with her parents, where she purchased her first piece of jewelry, a sterling silver antique bracelet. That experience started a decades-long love affair with collecting...Read more
Want to wrap up the gift list? Try this sale by local clay artistsLexington Herald Leader, December 10th
Thoroughbred Antique Gallery, 637 East Main Street, will host a sterling silver show and sale featuring Eric Lausch of Vi Walker Silver in Indianapolis. The show will be 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Pieces will include sterling flatware and...Read more
Sterling silver Tiffany bowl stolen from antique store in BirminghamHometownlife.com, December 5th
Birmingham Police are searching for two men who stole a $3,400 sterling silver Tiffany bowl from an antique shop. The theft occurred Nov. 22 at Merwins Antiques Gallery at 554 N. Old Woodward in downtown Birmingham. Police Det. Chris Koch said one of ...Read more
Birmingham police release photos of suspected antique store robbersWDIV Detroit, December 4th
The photos were retrieved from security cameras at Merwins Antiques Gallery on North Old Woodward where the man recently stole a $3,400 sterling silver Tiffany's bowl, police said. The men match the description of robbers who have hit other antique...Read more
Antique shop target of thievesDowntown: Birmingham/Bloomfield news magazine, November 28th
11/28/2014 - Two men stole a valuable antique sterling silver Tiffany bowl from a Birmingham antique shop by distracting the owner on Saturday, November 22. Two white men entered Merwyn's Antiques at 554 N. Old Woodward around 4:30, looking around ...Read more