No one knows for sure, but some historians speculate that the word “sterling” is a corruption of “Easterlings,” the German silversmiths brought to England by Henry II to share their silversmithing knowledge with the British. What we do know is that the sterling standard of 92.5 percent silver and 7.5 alloy, which tends to be mostly copper, originated around 1300 in England with Edward I.
Ever since, the Worshipful Company of Goldsmiths and Silversmiths has enforced this standard. The Worshipful Company derives its authority from the Goldsmiths’ Hall, whose name is the origin of the word “hallmark.”
Because England used silver money until 1921, the crown relied on strict enforcement and heavy punishments to ensure the quality of British silver. Without these standards, silversmiths could debase currency by melting down coins, reducing their silver content, and then passing them off as pure. Hallmarks guaranteed a standard of quality, and the force of the law gave weight to the standard. Indeed, in 1757, those found guilty of imitating hallmarks were sentenced to death.
Each piece of British silver had at least four marks that told its story: the standard mark, town mark, date letter, and maker’s mark. These marks were stamped on finished pieces when craftsmen brought their products to the local assay office, where officials tested the metal content of each product.
The sterling silver standard mark guaranteed that the silver content of a piece was at least 92.5 percent. In 1300, this mark was a leopard’s head. In 1478, the head was modified to include a crown. In 1544, during a time of coin debasement under Henry VIII, the mark was changed to a profile of a lion walking left, known as lion passant. This mark was changed again in 1820 to an uncrowned lion head.
For a short interim starting in 1697, the crown required silverware to be 95.8 percent pure silver, rather than 92.5 percent. This requirement was known as the Britannia standard, and the goal of its implementation was to prevent silversmiths after the Restoration from melting down coins (which were sterling standard) and using that to make their wares.
Britannia silver bore the profile of a lion’s head in place of the sterling mark. This higher-quality silver was softer and easier to work with, but the standard was phased out i...
The town mark indicated the origin of a piece; a large number of different town marks are known today. London used a leopard’s head, but marks elsewhere were often inconsistent. Thus, unique or rare marks often make a piece more collectible.
The date letter mark was first used in London in 1478 and is still enforced by the Worshipful Company today. The date mark indicates the year the piece was assayed—usually but not necessarily the same year as it was produced—with a letter of the alphabet, which changed every year. On special occasions, like the 25th wedding anniversary of George V and Queen Mary in 1934 and 1935, silversmiths would sometimes add an extra mark to commemorate the event.
The maker’s mark became mandatory in 1363 to ensure that a buyer could trace a bad or faulty good back to its maker. Because literacy rates were so low at the time, this mark started out as a sign or symbol, but this was changed to the first two letters of the maker’s surname in the late 16th century. In the 1720s, the mark changed again to the maker’s first and last initial.
Aside from these four marks, pieces from 1784 to 1890 also included a portrait of the current ruler. This mark proved to the government that the piece’s duty had been paid—a most important consideration given England’s massive debt following the American Revolution. This duty was repealed in 1890, and the sovereign mark disappeared along with it. Additionally, silver imported from 1867 onward had an “F” in a shield stamped on it to indicate its foreign origin.
Although marks tell a great deal of information about a piece, collectors should beware of fake marks. Whereas silversmiths used steel dies to punch their marks, forgers often used brass instead, resulting in a blurry mark. These forged marks are sometimes known as soft punches.
Stylistically, British silver followed the trends of the art world around it. In the 17th and early 18th centuries, Baroque was all the rage, with heavily ornamented and elaborate pieces. From 1702 to 1727, styles shifted to the much more restrained and austere Queen Anne and Early Georgian styles.
From then until 1837, the Rococo style took hold, with its organic, asymmetrical, and curved designs. The year 1837 marked the ascendancy of Queen Victoria and the rise of the Victorian silver, which was extravagant and heavily ornamented. In the 1890s, the whiplash curves and organic, asymmetrical shapes of Art Nouveau began to replace the Victorian style, with Tiffany & Co. producing high-quality vases, pitchers, and other types of hollowware.
Art Nouveau itself gave way in the mid-1910s to Art Deco, with its more geometric, stylized designs. Since 1945, the design of decorative and functional silver objects has been mostly modern, incorporating sculptural, organic, and abstract shapes.
Best of the Web (“Hall of Fame”)
Silver Marks Encyclopedia
Silver at the Victoria and Albert
The Gilbert Collection
Delight in Design: Indian Silver for the Raj
Clubs & Associations
Other Great Reference Sites
Most watched eBay auctions
Recent News: English Sterling Silver
Source: Google News
Good Times and Good Buys at Mason SaleMaine Antique Digest, November 25th
The overall high lot of the sale was a set of Towle sterling silver flatware and serving utensils in the Craftsman pattern. ... Among the traditional antiques and collectibles, the high lot was an interesting carved panel cataloged as a “Garden of Eden...Read more
From cast-off material, unique jewelryKeepMEcurrent.com, November 21st
Perkins purchases sterling from Hoover and Strong, a U.S. refinery that has been in business for about 100 years. The company takes unwanted jewelry, old sterling dinnerware, silver from electronics and scrap and puts it through a refining process. She...Read more
More Louisville-area shops offering holiday dealsThe Courier-Journal, November 21st
Gift Ideas: Sterling silver fleur de lis charm bracelet, $69; pearl and sterling heart dangle, $99. LADYBUG GIFTS. 9207F US ... The scoop: You'll exhale as soon as you step into this boutique within an antique stone house in Middletown. Covet-able...Read more
Fall's bounty at Pittsburgh auction houses extends to salesTribune-Review, November 16th
Other offerings include political campaign buttons, more than a dozen antique long guns, a trio of samurai swords, fishing tackle and lures, Native American pottery and arrowheads, fine glass from Steuben and other noted manufacturers and many pieces...Read more
Art aplenty in Ocean SpringsSunHerald.com, November 15th
13. Milleur began working in pewter when he sought to make a sterling silver trim to cover the base of a chipped antique vase he owned. A local pewtersmith suggested he try pewter instead of sterling. This was Milleur's introduction to working with the...Read more
New England antique shop relocates hereAndalusia Star-News, November 12th
“We have baskets, china, sterling silver, quilts, wood furniture, jewelry and rare collectibles,” Correro said. “One thing we feature that not a lot of people around here have is Majolica pottery and porcelain.” The shop also carries Royal Doulton...Read more
What's old is new again for Stamford collectorThe Advocate, November 9th
The entrepreneur was selling scarves, jewelry, trinket boxes, antique perfume bottles, hair bands, decorative glass balls, sterling silver pieces, estate pieces and more. "What I brought here is a lot of vintage pieces or one-of-a-kind," she noted...Read more
Summer Auction 2014Maine Antique Digest, November 5th
An 18th-century spice cabinet in old green paint that had a single door opening to a multi-drawer interior generated substantial excitement at the Marion Antique Auctions summer sale on July 26 in Marion, Massachusetts. It piqued the interest of a...Read more