Crocodilian leather is perhaps the most popular natural material for vintage purses and handbags. The earliest Crocodilian fossils can be traced back to 80 million years ago, when dinosaurs still roamed the earth. Today the order encompasses 23 species, including crocodiles, alligators, gavials, and caiman.

The first handbags appearing in the early 20th century and resembling small suitcases for women were created by leather goods companies such as Louis Vuitton, Gucci, and Prada. At the time, these firms made utilitarian objects such as harnesses, saddles, and luggage. Hermès, in particular, was known for its use of exquisite leathers such as alligator, ostrich, and crocodile for its nose and saddle bags. When it transitioned to this new market for women, the luxury brand handbag was born.

Early Victorian and Edwardian leather handbags and purses made of alligator and crocodile emphasize the natural texture and color of the skins, often featuring head and back horns and a range of browns and tans and/or olive green. Some of these antique purses even come with taxidermied paws sewn into the bag.

In the 1950s, women became obsessed with carrying a "good" handbag, which was defined as a sophisticated, well-designed leather handbag made of black calf, crocodile, or alligator. An affordable alligator handbag, with a "griffe" or designer label, could give elegance and class to a woman who didn't have the money for a couture jacket or evening gown. These skins were often dyed and finished, and your fashionable 1950s woman had a rainbow of colors to chose from, from basic blacks and off-whites to fuchsia, turquoise, and jade. Finishes included bombe, classic, and matte.

Hermès dominated the field with its Kelly bag. Crafted out of two alligators, the belly skin was used for the body of the bag, the neck skin for sides. This celebrated purse was favored by movie stars like Marlene Dietrich, Ingrid Bergman, and Grace Kelly. Another Hermès handbag, the Birkin, was originally made out of brown crocodile skin and has become a status symbol.

There are only two known alligator species: American alligator, currently thriving in the Southeastern United States, and Chinese alligator, which is critically endangered. American alligators, once threatened by poachers, came back from the brink of extinction in 1987, thanks to wetlands conservation efforts fueled by the handbag industry. Hence, all alligator products should be made of American alligator.

On the other hand, there are dozens of known species of crocodile. In general, skins made from American alligators are considered more desirable, as the scale pattern is more sym...

The most expensive purse in the world, a red Hermès Birking bag with white gold and diamond hardware that sold for more than $200,000, is made out of Porosus crocodile. Unlike all the freshwater crocodiles, this "saltie" doesn't have any bony protrusions, or osteoderms, on its belly scales—osteoderms are limited to its back and neck. The saltwater croc's scales are more oval on its sides, and small, even rectangular, on its belly.

Freshwater crocodile leather is more common, but many species are endangered and so their use is restricted. Generally speaking, freshwater crocodile is of slightly lower quality than saltwater, and their osteoderms can make tanning difficult. Brown caiman from Central and South America is another reptile species, a low-quality leather that often gets billed as alligator or crocodile skin. Caiman makes for a drier, stiffer, thinner, and generally less durable bag, and the scales often have strange lines or spots through them. Buyers should beware of dealers trying to get alligator or crocodile prices for caiman handbags.

If a crocodilian leather bag has an umbilical scar, you know it is alligator. As a testament to the authenticity of their product, some designers will place this biological phenomenon, an elongated and webbed star shape, in a prominent position on their bags. Purses incorporating head bumps also give away the species: Alligators have three rows of two head bumps; crocodiles have two rows, one with four head bumps, the other with two; caiman have three rows, two with four head bumps, one with two.

Crocodiles leather can be distinguished by small pores or dimples found toward the edge of each scale. These are for sensory hairs that crocodile use to feel their environment. After the leather is tanned, you can still see the small hole where the hair, called integumentary sensory organ, once was. Alligator scales have even sizes, while caiman scale patterns are more asymmetrical.

Fake, or non-leather, imitations are getting trickier to identify, as many of them are made with molds from real crocodile or alligator skins. Usually, the space between the scales is not very deep, and the pattern is often inorganically repetitive.

About our sources | Got something to add?

▼ Expand to read the full article ▼

Best of the Web (“Hall of Fame”)

Bag Lady University

Bag Lady University

Bag Lady University is the place to learn about handbag makers from Adrian's, which made Bakelite bags, to Whiting … [read review or visit site]

Other Great Reference Sites

Most watched eBay auctions    

Yves Saint Laurent Patent Croc Tribute Tote Black Handbag Purse 70849Dooney & Bourke Avocado Green Small Croc Crossbody Satchel Almost PerfectBeautiful Vintage Genuine Brahmin Structured Alligator Satchel/purse/bagBrahmin Vineyard Purple Croc Leather Womens Handbag Shoulder PurseGenuine Vintage Hermes Shiny Vert Fonce Crocodile Sac Cordeliere BagBrahmin Vineyard Antwhere Purple Croc Leather Womens Handbag Shoulder PurseMiche Demi Kelsey W/ Croc Handles And Brass Carabiners! Free Shipping!!Brahmin Brown Croc Print Zip Closure Shoulder Handbag And WristletNw Michael Kors Dillon Large N/s Embossed Croc Leather Tote Bag $398 ~ Chili RedAuthentic Hermes Kelly Long Wallet Clutch Crocodile Fuschia Pink Croc Rare Brahmin Pecan Dark Brown Moc Croc Leather Shoulder Bag Purse $335 Brahmin Tyler Amber Croc Embossed Melbourne Satchel Crossbody H17151reHandbag Genuine Brahmin Melbourne Pecan Croc Zip Top Tote Shopper Shoulder PurseBrahmin ~ Tri - Color Croc Embossed Satchel ~ Tassel Deco ~ Double HandleAuthentic Brahmin Vintage Burlap Croc Embossed Large Women's Purse, Shoulder BagVintage Brahmin Croc Embossed Leather Tuscan Satchel Bag PurseFabulous Shape And Quality Black 1970's Genuine Crocodile Skin Grab Bag~mintBrahmin Pink Melbourne Large Pink Crocodile Leather Handbag Brahmin Croc Embossed Sweetheart Whiskey La Scala Convertible Tote Msrp 295.Vintage Bellestone Alligator Lizard Hand Bag Set Comb Mirror Coin PurseVintage Handbag Clutch Purse Lot Salvatore Ferragamo Sterling Alligator BeadedLana Marks Black Crocodile Satchel Handbag Women's Brahim Large Toasted Almond Croc Embossed Handbag Purse W/dustbag ~ GucMichael Kors Studded Croc Effect Leather And Zebra Canvas Shoulder BagAuth Gucci Need Repair Genuine Crocodile Leather Hand Bag 371-126-eCeline Crocodile Embossed Mini Luggage PhantomHandbag Genuine Brahmin Melbourne Red Croc Zip Top Tote Shopper Shoulder Purse100% Genuine Crocodile Skin Shiny Black Hand Tote Bag Purse W/pouch ExcellentEileen Kramer Beige Crocodile Tote/shopper HandbagBrahmin Mini Arno Leather Satchel Crossbody Handbag Croc Embossed VgucDooney & Bourke Red Croc Bag Purse - Large Leather Bag - Great Used Condition!!!Authentic Louis Vuitton Neo Speedy Alligator Denim M95013 Handbag Purse Bag Brahmin Elisa Hobo Satchel Handbag Black Tuscan Leather Croc Emboss Trim EucBrahmin Croc Embossed Tan Satchel Euc No Strap With Bust Bag Brahmin Black Crocodile Leather Medium Women's Shoulder Bag Purse Brahmin Tuscan Collection Classic Black Leather Brown Croc Embossed Trim BagStunning Eileen Kramer Ivory Crocodile Medium HandbagBrahmin Taupe Croc Print Leather Large Shoulder Women's Purse Bag $398 Michael Kors Brown Croc Embossed Leather E/w East West Hamilton Tote RareVersace Authentic Handbag Oversized Clutch Soft Croc Leather Olive Green ColorBrighton Black Leather Croc Shoulder Bag - BeautifulBirkin Style Leather Bag, Crocodile, Handmade, Black, Large (35 Cm)Crocodile Embossed Patent Leather Kelly Type Satchel Bag BlackVintage Justin American Alligator / Cayman Men's Business Portfolio Beautiful!B May Crocodile Alligator Embossed Genuine Leather Handbag Tote Ivory2015 Fashion Women Faux Crocodile Pattern Leather Shoulder Bag Messenger HandbagStunning **true Vintage** Brown Leather Box Handbag With Crocodile PatternSuperb Mirror Shine Real Crocodile Skin Vintage Handbag Bag Brahmin Shoulder Bag - Black With Brown Croc Trim -Pre Owned Kelly Style In Black Crocodile Embossed Patent Genuine LeatherBrighton *vintage Leather Brown/black 2-toned Croc Embossed Strap & DetailBrahmin Embossed Croc Leather SatchelVintage 1940s-1950s Alligator Handbag Dark BrownBrahmin Croc Leather Satchel Toasted Almond HandbagFine Vintage Deauville Black Alligator Skin HandbagCoach Madison Embossed Croc White Leather Shoulder Bag Satchel Tignanello Tan Brown Croc Embossed Shoulder Bag Hobo Purse Beautiful !Brighton Small Purse Cross Body Organizer Black Leather With Moc CrocBrahmin Authentic Brown Mock Croc Replacement Shoulder Strap W/ ClipSteven Steve Madden Black Croc Patent Leather Purse Bag Tote