Crocodilian leather is perhaps the most popular natural material for vintage purses and handbags. The earliest Crocodilian fossils can be traced back to 80 million years ago, when dinosaurs still roamed the earth. Today the order encompasses 23 species, including crocodiles, alligators, gavials, and caiman.

The first handbags appearing in the early 20th century and resembling small suitcases for women were created by leather goods companies such as Louis Vuitton, Gucci, and Prada. At the time, these firms made utilitarian objects such as harnesses, saddles, and luggage. Hermès, in particular, was known for its use of exquisite leathers such as alligator, ostrich, and crocodile for its nose and saddle bags. When it transitioned to this new market for women, the luxury brand handbag was born.

Early Victorian and Edwardian leather handbags and purses made of alligator and crocodile emphasize the natural texture and color of the skins, often featuring head and back horns and a range of browns and tans and/or olive green. Some of these antique purses even come with taxidermied paws sewn into the bag.

In the 1950s, women became obsessed with carrying a "good" handbag, which was defined as a sophisticated, well-designed leather handbag made of black calf, crocodile, or alligator. An affordable alligator handbag, with a "griffe" or designer label, could give elegance and class to a woman who didn't have the money for a couture jacket or evening gown. These skins were often dyed and finished, and your fashionable 1950s woman had a rainbow of colors to chose from, from basic blacks and off-whites to fuchsia, turquoise, and jade. Finishes included bombe, classic, and matte.

Hermès dominated the field with its Kelly bag. Crafted out of two alligators, the belly skin was used for the body of the bag, the neck skin for sides. This celebrated purse was favored by movie stars like Marlene Dietrich, Ingrid Bergman, and Grace Kelly. Another Hermès handbag, the Birkin, was originally made out of brown crocodile skin and has become a status symbol.

There are only two known alligator species: American alligator, currently thriving in the Southeastern United States, and Chinese alligator, which is critically endangered. American alligators, once threatened by poachers, came back from the brink of extinction in 1987, thanks to wetlands conservation efforts fueled by the handbag industry. Hence, all alligator products should be made of American alligator.

On the other hand, there are dozens of known species of crocodile. In general, skins made from American alligators are considered more desirable, as the scale pattern is more sym...

The most expensive purse in the world, a red Hermès Birking bag with white gold and diamond hardware that sold for more than $200,000, is made out of Porosus crocodile. Unlike all the freshwater crocodiles, this "saltie" doesn't have any bony protrusions, or osteoderms, on its belly scales—osteoderms are limited to its back and neck. The saltwater croc's scales are more oval on its sides, and small, even rectangular, on its belly.

Freshwater crocodile leather is more common, but many species are endangered and so their use is restricted. Generally speaking, freshwater crocodile is of slightly lower quality than saltwater, and their osteoderms can make tanning difficult. Brown caiman from Central and South America is another reptile species, a low-quality leather that often gets billed as alligator or crocodile skin. Caiman makes for a drier, stiffer, thinner, and generally less durable bag, and the scales often have strange lines or spots through them. Buyers should beware of dealers trying to get alligator or crocodile prices for caiman handbags.

If a crocodilian leather bag has an umbilical scar, you know it is alligator. As a testament to the authenticity of their product, some designers will place this biological phenomenon, an elongated and webbed star shape, in a prominent position on their bags. Purses incorporating head bumps also give away the species: Alligators have three rows of two head bumps; crocodiles have two rows, one with four head bumps, the other with two; caiman have three rows, two with four head bumps, one with two.

Crocodiles leather can be distinguished by small pores or dimples found toward the edge of each scale. These are for sensory hairs that crocodile use to feel their environment. After the leather is tanned, you can still see the small hole where the hair, called integumentary sensory organ, once was. Alligator scales have even sizes, while caiman scale patterns are more asymmetrical.

Fake, or non-leather, imitations are getting trickier to identify, as many of them are made with molds from real crocodile or alligator skins. Usually, the space between the scales is not very deep, and the pattern is often inorganically repetitive.

About our sources | Got something to add?

▼ Expand to read the full article ▼

Best of the Web (“Hall of Fame”)

Bag Lady University

Bag Lady University

Bag Lady University is the place to learn about handbag makers from Adrian's, which made Bakelite bags, to Whiting … [read review or visit site]

Other Great Reference Sites

Most watched eBay auctions    

Hermes Paris Porosus Crocodile Pullman Brown Sac Tasche Vintage BagYsl Yves Saint Laurent Brown Crocodile Embossed Nubuck Leather Muse Two BagCeline Trapeze Croc Black Leather Bag With StrapAuthentic Hermes Hac 32 Cm Birkin Matte Crocodile Rouge HermÈs Palladium Hw Brahmin Black Croc-embossed Leather Shoulder BagMax Mara Tan Crocodile Embossed Leather Pushlock SatchelLana Marks Dark Green Crocodile Shoulder Handbag Bn673Auth Versace Crocodile Embossed Leather Hand Bag Briefcase Brown 2627ern❤️brahmin Duxbury Clutch Lagoon Green Croc Emboss Leather Foldover Evening Bag❤️Brahmin Multi Grain Croc Leather Shoulder BagGivenchy Lucrezia Croc Large Brahmin Sloane Satchel Chartreuse Croc Leather With Matching WalletBrahmin Alligator HandbagBrahmin Oxblood Croc Satchel Handbag With Checkbook Wallet & Credit Card CaseAuth. Alexander Mcqueen Elvie Gold Croc Handbag. Jimmy Choo Black Crocodile Snake Envelope Clutch Wallet Msrp $725 Low Reserve!Authentic Black Celine Phantom Crocodile HandbagLongchamp Burgundy Wine Red Croc Embossed Leather Roseau Tote Rare ColorAntique Vintage Alligator Taxidermy Claw Foot Coin Purse 1920s Brahmin Metallic Gunmetal Croc Embossed Leather Satchel Handbag Tote W Dust BagAuthentic Nancy Gonzalez Metallic Black Crocodile Flap Clutch/wallet *2015*Auth.brahmin Genuine Leather Crocodile Black/brown Tote Hand/ Shoulder Bag M-l$530 Longchamp Burgundy Red Croc Embossed Leather Roseau Tote Handbag Rare ColorBrahmin Dagny Pecanleather Alligator Print Satchel Handbag/purseDooney & Bourke Italy Lavender Purple Croc Leather Large Bowler Satchel PurseBrahmin Vintage Pecan Croc & Black Leather SatchelBrahmin Didi Leather Clutch In Crimson/red Melbourne Embossed Croc, EucBrahmin Shoulder Handbag Purse Gorgeous Leather Brown Crocodile Design ❤️brahmin Weekender Cocoa Duffel Anywhere Travel Luggage Brown Croc Leather ❤️Vintage Donna Karan Large Purple Orchid Crocodile Clutch Made In Italy Coach Avery Leather Crocodile HoboBrahmin Croc Embossed Black Leather And Print Canvas Shoulder Purse Bag~rare!Br-vintage 70s Navy Blue+red Embossed Alligator Crocodile Leather Handbag3.1 Phillip Lim Black Croc/ Patent Clutch Retail $275 W/ Dust BagDooney & Bourke Lrg Alligator / Croc Embossed Leather Tote Shopper Bag ~gorgeousDooney & Bourke Purple Mock Croc Tassel Handbag Purse Msrp $322 Low Reserve!Vintage Hornback Crocodile Skin Bag Handbag NrAuthentic Lancel Flirt Brown Croc Embossed Shoulder BagBrighton Red Pebbled Leather Croc- Embossed Artison Purse #c831549 Gently Loved Vintage 1970s Dark Brown Crocodile Skin Grab Bag Handbag ( Crocodylus PorosusB. Makowsky Shoulder Bag Purse Black Leather Embossed Crocodile PatternDooney Bourke Red Croc Embossed Med Shoulder Purse H 10 In W 9.5 In Leather Michael Kors Selma Large Brown Croc Embossed, Retails $398.00 Very Nice!Vintage Auth. 1950s Lucille De Paris Brown Alligator Handbag Purse Nice!!$245 Dooney & Bourke Avocado Green Croc Nile Fredrica Convertible Crossbody RareBrahmin Croc Embossed Leather Handbag Purse Bag Tote Shoulder Bag Brahmin Black Brown Leather Moc Croc Medium Shoulder Bag PursePlinio Visona Made In Italy Alligator Red Leather Shoulder Purse Designer PurseBrighton Red Croc-embossed Leather Small CrossbodyAv- Vintage Black Lucienne French Paris Embossed Alligator Leather Handbag PurseBrighton Purse Croc Black Patent Lime Green Leather Handbag Shoulder D554022$395 Brahmin Authentic Lincoln Satchel Croc Embossed Cocoa Melboure Lg HandbagBrighton Turquoise Blue Leather/croc Mini Crossbody Organizer ~ 2 Charms ~ EucBrahmin Straw Croc Embossed Leather Satchel Style HandbagFurla Made In Italy Embrossed Croc Brown Handbag PurseAuthentic Nancy Gonzalez Crocodile Handbag With Shoulder & Crossbody Straps$345 Brahmin Black Croc Leather Lamb Fur Louise Rose Satchel Tote Handbag RareDooney Bourke Dillen Double Pocket Satchel Tote Business Crocodile Embossed Brahmin Moonlight Croc Embossed Leather Carmela Melbourn Hobo Shoulder HandbagAmazing! Vintage Genuine Alligator Crocodile Shoulder Hand Bag Taxidermy