Crocodilian leather is perhaps the most popular natural material for vintage purses and handbags. The earliest Crocodilian fossils can be traced back to 80 million years ago, when dinosaurs still roamed the earth. Today the order encompasses 23 species, including crocodiles, alligators, gavials, and caiman.

The first handbags appearing in the early 20th century and resembling small suitcases for women were created by leather goods companies such as Louis Vuitton, Gucci, and Prada. At the time, these firms made utilitarian objects such as harnesses, saddles, and luggage. Hermès, in particular, was known for its use of exquisite leathers such as alligator, ostrich, and crocodile for its nose and saddle bags. When it transitioned to this new market for women, the luxury brand handbag was born.

Early Victorian and Edwardian leather handbags and purses made of alligator and crocodile emphasize the natural texture and color of the skins, often featuring head and back horns and a range of browns and tans and/or olive green. Some of these antique purses even come with taxidermied paws sewn into the bag.

In the 1950s, women became obsessed with carrying a "good" handbag, which was defined as a sophisticated, well-designed leather handbag made of black calf, crocodile, or alligator. An affordable alligator handbag, with a "griffe" or designer label, could give elegance and class to a woman who didn't have the money for a couture jacket or evening gown. These skins were often dyed and finished, and your fashionable 1950s woman had a rainbow of colors to chose from, from basic blacks and off-whites to fuchsia, turquoise, and jade. Finishes included bombe, classic, and matte.

Hermès dominated the field with its Kelly bag. Crafted out of two alligators, the belly skin was used for the body of the bag, the neck skin for sides. This celebrated purse was favored by movie stars like Marlene Dietrich, Ingrid Bergman, and Grace Kelly. Another Hermès handbag, the Birkin, was originally made out of brown crocodile skin and has become a status symbol.

There are only two known alligator species: American alligator, currently thriving in the Southeastern United States, and Chinese alligator, which is critically endangered. American alligators, once threatened by poachers, came back from the brink of extinction in 1987, thanks to wetlands conservation efforts fueled by the handbag industry. Hence, all alligator products should be made of American alligator.

On the other hand, there are dozens of known species of crocodile. In general, skins made from American alligators are considered more desirable, as the scale pattern is more sym...

The most expensive purse in the world, a red Hermès Birking bag with white gold and diamond hardware that sold for more than $200,000, is made out of Porosus crocodile. Unlike all the freshwater crocodiles, this "saltie" doesn't have any bony protrusions, or osteoderms, on its belly scales—osteoderms are limited to its back and neck. The saltwater croc's scales are more oval on its sides, and small, even rectangular, on its belly.

Freshwater crocodile leather is more common, but many species are endangered and so their use is restricted. Generally speaking, freshwater crocodile is of slightly lower quality than saltwater, and their osteoderms can make tanning difficult. Brown caiman from Central and South America is another reptile species, a low-quality leather that often gets billed as alligator or crocodile skin. Caiman makes for a drier, stiffer, thinner, and generally less durable bag, and the scales often have strange lines or spots through them. Buyers should beware of dealers trying to get alligator or crocodile prices for caiman handbags.

If a crocodilian leather bag has an umbilical scar, you know it is alligator. As a testament to the authenticity of their product, some designers will place this biological phenomenon, an elongated and webbed star shape, in a prominent position on their bags. Purses incorporating head bumps also give away the species: Alligators have three rows of two head bumps; crocodiles have two rows, one with four head bumps, the other with two; caiman have three rows, two with four head bumps, one with two.

Crocodiles leather can be distinguished by small pores or dimples found toward the edge of each scale. These are for sensory hairs that crocodile use to feel their environment. After the leather is tanned, you can still see the small hole where the hair, called integumentary sensory organ, once was. Alligator scales have even sizes, while caiman scale patterns are more asymmetrical.

Fake, or non-leather, imitations are getting trickier to identify, as many of them are made with molds from real crocodile or alligator skins. Usually, the space between the scales is not very deep, and the pattern is often inorganically repetitive.

About our sources | Got something to add?

▼ Expand to read the full article ▼

Best of the Web (“Hall of Fame”)

Bag Lady University

Bag Lady University

Bag Lady University is the place to learn about handbag makers from Adrian's, which made Bakelite bags, to Whiting … [read review or visit site]

Other Great Reference Sites

Most watched eBay auctions    

Authentic Black Ysl Yves Saint Laurent Monogram Small Chain Crossbody Bag CrocMarc By Marc Jacobs Crocodile Embossed Natasha Crossbody BagMichael Kors Erin Crocodile Embossed Handbag, Wow Gorgeous, No ReserveBrahmin Toasted Almond Croc Embossed Italian Leather Handbag W/ WalletHermés Birkin CrocodileLarge Authentic Judith Leiber Black Alligator Tote Handbag Double HandleBrahmin Jody Black Melbourne Croc Embossed Crossbody Small Messanger HandbagLongchamp Black Crocodile Embossed Spazzolato Leather Toggle Tote HandbagMauro Governa Dark Grey Crocodile Shoulder BagBrahmin Black Melbourne Croc Leather Large Tote -gorgeous ConditionBrahmin Red Leather Crocodile Shoulder BagGorgeous Brahmin Pecan Brown Crocodile Emb Satchel Handbag W/ Wallet & Dust Bag Brahmin Vtg Melbourne Croc Embossed Pecan Leather Cross Body/shoulder Bag*usaBrahmin Blue Patent Leather Croc Embossed Tote / Soulder BagKate Spade Orchard Valley Sinclair Crocodile Embossed Ivory Leather Purse 3 Sets Womens Crocodile Leather Handbag Bag Purse Message Bag Shoulder Bag ZzCoach Leather Croc Embossed Ashley Tote Shoulder Bag Purse Lilac PurpleDooney And Bourke Purple Nile Leather Croc Womans Dr Hanbag And Wallet Combo3.1 Phillip Lim 31 Hour Bag Croc Embossed WhiteYves Saint Laurent Ysl Black Brushed Suede Crocodile Gold Roady Large HoboAuthenic Judith Leiber Large Black Alligator Attache Briefcase HandbagBrahmin Embossed Croc Leather Satchel Cross Body Handbag EucCrocodile Pattern Women Handbag Shoulder Bag Leather Messenger Hobo Bag SatchelRare Michael Kors Hamilton Zebra Print With CrocBrahmin Medium Arno Croc Embossed Leather ToteMarc By Marc Jacobs Q Croc Striped Mini Natasha Cross Body BagLadies Attractive Frame Patent Croc Party Prom Wedding Shoulder Handbag WhiteLanvin Black Trilogy Croc-embossed Leather Bag - Sold Out EverywhereBrahmin Baringo Giraffe Print W/ Cocoa Truffle ? Melbourne Croc Crossbody BagBrahmin Anytime Tote Bag Distresse Brown Leather Print CrocBrighton Kaelan Red Patent/croc Embossed Leather Handbag + Box + Dust BagBrahmin Croc. Embossed Black Leather Bag Made In Usa Excellent W/storage BagAdorable Ultra Luxe Genuine Crocodile Alligator Skin Art Deco Style Handbag BagCrocodile Pattern Women Handbag Shoulder Bag Leather Messenger Hobo Bag SatchelFurla Vintage Nero Croc Embossed Italian Leather Top Handle Flap Satchel Bag QhFurla Burgundy Croc Embossed Vintage Leather Backpack Tote Carry All BagBrighton X-large Black Pebbled Leather Croc Shoulder Bag Satchel Tote ShopperBrighton Leather Croc Embossed Shoulder Bag Msrp $250 Brown Black Medium Brighton Beautiful Brown Pebbled Croc Leather With Light Blue Accent VgcBrahmin Louise Rose Black Melbourne CrocCoach 26123 $498 Avery Embossed Croc Large Satchel Peacock Teal Blue Tassel Euc Michael Kors Hamilton Ns Large Crocodile Embossed Leather Tote Or Shoulder BagB. Makowsky Black Leather Embossed Croc Hobo Handbag Shoulder Shopper PurseRiver Handbag Genuine Crocodile Purse Brahmin Fairhaven Mass Usa Crocodile Vintage No StrapBrighton Handbag Large Brown Moc Croc Patent Leather BeautifulBrighton Brown/black Leather Croc Wallet Organizer Crossbody Bag Lovely Purple Mock Croc Osprey London Leather Handbag VgcFashion Women Crocodile Pu Leather Messenger Crossbody Clutch Shoulder HandbagDesigner Gray Crocodile Skin Buckle Closure Tote Handbag LargeDooney And Bourke Brown Croc Embossed Medium Size Leather Satchel Euc Birkin Style Vintage Real Italian Leather, Fux Alligator VintageBally 2-tone Croc / Pebbled Leather Handbag / Shoulder Bag Black & ExpressoVintage Brahmin Black & Brown Croc Leather HandbagBrighton Women's Red Crocodile Embossed Leather Florentina Satchel Handbag H3207Brighton Brown Large Leather Croc Wallet Clutch Tri-fold Silver TrimPu Leather Women Vintage Bags Crocodile Veins Totes Simple HandbagsFashion Women Purple Crocodile Leather Coin Phone Zipper Purse Clutch Wallet BagHenry Beguelin Black Crocodile Embossed Studed Accent Clutch, Handbag. 11" X 5"Bermas Vintage German Black Leather Croc Vanity Train Case With Lock And Key