Crocodilian leather is perhaps the most popular natural material for vintage purses and handbags. The earliest Crocodilian fossils can be traced back to 80 million years ago, when dinosaurs still roamed the earth. Today the order encompasses 23 species, including crocodiles, alligators, gavials, and caiman.

The first handbags appearing in the early 20th century and resembling small suitcases for women were created by leather goods companies such as Louis Vuitton, Gucci, and Prada. At the time, these firms made utilitarian objects such as harnesses, saddles, and luggage. Hermès, in particular, was known for its use of exquisite leathers such as alligator, ostrich, and crocodile for its nose and saddle bags. When it transitioned to this new market for women, the luxury brand handbag was born.

Early Victorian and Edwardian leather handbags and purses made of alligator and crocodile emphasize the natural texture and color of the skins, often featuring head and back horns and a range of browns and tans and/or olive green. Some of these antique purses even come with taxidermied paws sewn into the bag.

In the 1950s, women became obsessed with carrying a "good" handbag, which was defined as a sophisticated, well-designed leather handbag made of black calf, crocodile, or alligator. An affordable alligator handbag, with a "griffe" or designer label, could give elegance and class to a woman who didn't have the money for a couture jacket or evening gown. These skins were often dyed and finished, and your fashionable 1950s woman had a rainbow of colors to chose from, from basic blacks and off-whites to fuchsia, turquoise, and jade. Finishes included bombe, classic, and matte.

Hermès dominated the field with its Kelly bag. Crafted out of two alligators, the belly skin was used for the body of the bag, the neck skin for sides. This celebrated purse was favored by movie stars like Marlene Dietrich, Ingrid Bergman, and Grace Kelly. Another Hermès handbag, the Birkin, was originally made out of brown crocodile skin and has become a status symbol.

There are only two known alligator species: American alligator, currently thriving in the Southeastern United States, and Chinese alligator, which is critically endangered. American alligators, once threatened by poachers, came back from the brink of extinction in 1987, thanks to wetlands conservation efforts fueled by the handbag industry. Hence, all alligator products should be made of American alligator.

On the other hand, there are dozens of known species of crocodile. In general, skins made from American alligators are considered more desirable, as the scale pattern is more sym...

The most expensive purse in the world, a red Hermès Birking bag with white gold and diamond hardware that sold for more than $200,000, is made out of Porosus crocodile. Unlike all the freshwater crocodiles, this "saltie" doesn't have any bony protrusions, or osteoderms, on its belly scales—osteoderms are limited to its back and neck. The saltwater croc's scales are more oval on its sides, and small, even rectangular, on its belly.

Freshwater crocodile leather is more common, but many species are endangered and so their use is restricted. Generally speaking, freshwater crocodile is of slightly lower quality than saltwater, and their osteoderms can make tanning difficult. Brown caiman from Central and South America is another reptile species, a low-quality leather that often gets billed as alligator or crocodile skin. Caiman makes for a drier, stiffer, thinner, and generally less durable bag, and the scales often have strange lines or spots through them. Buyers should beware of dealers trying to get alligator or crocodile prices for caiman handbags.

If a crocodilian leather bag has an umbilical scar, you know it is alligator. As a testament to the authenticity of their product, some designers will place this biological phenomenon, an elongated and webbed star shape, in a prominent position on their bags. Purses incorporating head bumps also give away the species: Alligators have three rows of two head bumps; crocodiles have two rows, one with four head bumps, the other with two; caiman have three rows, two with four head bumps, one with two.

Crocodiles leather can be distinguished by small pores or dimples found toward the edge of each scale. These are for sensory hairs that crocodile use to feel their environment. After the leather is tanned, you can still see the small hole where the hair, called integumentary sensory organ, once was. Alligator scales have even sizes, while caiman scale patterns are more asymmetrical.

Fake, or non-leather, imitations are getting trickier to identify, as many of them are made with molds from real crocodile or alligator skins. Usually, the space between the scales is not very deep, and the pattern is often inorganically repetitive.

About our sources | Got something to add?

▼ Expand to read the full article ▼

Best of the Web (“Hall of Fame”)

Bag Lady University

Bag Lady University

Bag Lady University is the place to learn about handbag makers from Adrian's, which made Bakelite bags, to Whiting … [read review or visit site]



Other Great Reference Sites

Most watched eBay auctions    

Coach Black Crocodile Embossed Leather Alexandra BagCeline Trapeze Large Black Croc Embossed Leather Shoulder Bag 100% AuthenticBrahmin Brown Croc Leather Handbag Purse Nice!Authentic Givenchy Large Box Pandora Croc EmbossedMagnificent Black Crocodile Skin Jewellery Box~suitable Jewellery,watches~mint..Brahmin Toasted Almond Croc Embossed Leather Shoulder Bag *Michael Kors Croc Brown Leather Hobo Handbag Tassel Purse Shoulder Bag Tote Euc Brahmin Vivian Mink Brown Tan Melbourne Croc Embossed Domed Satchel Purse Vintage Brahmin Pecan Brown Toasted Almond Croc Croco Leather Tote Purse Bag$398 Michael Kors Hamilton Croc Medium Tote Lock & Key Satchel No Reserve!!!Brahmin Brown Leather Croc Hobo Shoulder Large Handbag Satchel Tote Purse Auth Brahmin Purse Shoulder Messenger/cross Body Hand Bag Red Croc Leather IdBrahmin Prissy Collection Croc Handbag Purse Brahmin Authentic Red Croc Embossed Leather Wristlet HandbagGenuine Brahmin Leather Crocodile Embossed PurseKate Spade Orchard Valley Fiona In Pink Sapphire Croc Leather Envelope Crossbody Miu Miu Hornback Alligator Shoulder Bag Purple Plum Chain Shoulder Bag 105653Lisa Barfield White Crocodile Ali Clutch Purse With Carved Aventurine TasselBrahmin Debra Wristlet Pecan Melbourne Croc Embossed Leather Wristlet Wallet Valentino By Mario Valentino Bravia Crocodile Embossed Satchel Purse Bag, GrayV Italia 1969 Rusty Brown Crocodile Embossed Crossbody Bag PurseBrahmin Brown Croc Embossed Cross Body /wallet Bag – Mint CondXl Leather Coach Ashley Croc Satchel/tote/shoulderbag #f17661 .99 Start Bid!Michael Kors Selma Tz Croc Embossed Leather Gray Satchel Tote HandbagBrahmin Toasted Almond Croc Embossed Small Wallet Leather Crossbody BagBrahmin Croc Embossed Leather Crossbody Black/brown Bag W/ Matching WalletGreen Blue Brahmin Crocodile Satchel PurseMadi Claire Mc Medium Croc Embossed Turquoise & Brown Purse/ Shoulder BagBrahmin Black Alligator Embossed Leather HandbagBrahmin Pecan Brown Croc Leather Tote Bag PurseAuthentic Brahmin Arno Croc Leather Malbourne PurseVtg Brahmin Crocodile Leather Brass Brown Satchel Shoulder Bag Honore UsaBrighton Red Leather Alligator Shoulder Bag HandbagCoach Handbag Purse Brown Alligator SkinBrahmin Tuscan Doctors Dome Satchel Smooth Black Leather & Melbourne Croc TrimBrighton Weekender Black Scroll And Chocolate Croc Leather - Missing Strap!Brahmin Ivory Mock Croc Leather Bucket Bag PurseBrighton Red Croc Patent Leather Crossbody Outside Pocket Clutch Organizer PurseVtg Brahmin Pecan Croc Embossed Leather Shoulder Bag Needs RepairMichael Kors Black Nylon & Crocodile Embossed Pvc Overnight Duffle Bag PurseMichael Kors Jelly Animal Croc Embossed Clear Gold Tote Shopper Large Bag PurseWomen's Crocodile Pattern Fashion Handbag Portable Shoulder Bag Hobo Tote BagRare Dooney Bourke Brown Croc Embossed Leather Bayou Large Bucket Shopper ToteCroc Leather Dooney & Bourke Double Strap Tassel Handbag & Wristlet & Key FobGabs Made In Italy With Love Blue Croc Leather Shoulder Bag Handbag PurseMade In Italy Iconic Blue Embossed Croc Genuine Leather Tote Satchel HandbagBrighton Leather Crossbody Handbag Purse Croc Print Organizer Brown/blackBrahmin Tote, Large, Gorgeous Crocodile Embossed Leather, Rich Pecan TonesWomen's Crocodile Pattern Fashion Handbag Portable Shoulder Bag Hobo Tote BagBrahmin Torey Top Handle Satchel Glimmer Croc Tri-color Vault Collection! Kate Spade Black Lamb Shearling And Croc Print Leather Purse Xlnt L@@k! $34..99Dooney & Bourke Alto Black Moc Croc Leather Oversized Tote BagVintage Furla Croc Embossed Leather Handbag / Laptop BagNancy Gonzalez Crocodile Shoulder Bag With Woven Handle And Pleated DetailBrahmin Authentic Vintage Designer Shoulder Handbag Embossed Croc $245 NordstromJaeger Black / Tan Tote Bag Handbag Croc Style Trim CrocodileBrighton Croc Brown Top Handbag8 Authentic-dior Luggage Cd-coach-alligator-dooney Bourke-lancel-leather Bag LotWomen Crocodile Leather Messenger Crossbody Clutch Shoulder Handbag PinkBrighton Black Leather Crocodile Tote Shoulder Bag With Charms