Vintage and Antique Cameos

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Picture an antique cameo, and the first image that probably pops into your mind is a woman's profile carved out of white shell against a coral background. That certainly describes a typical Victorian cameo, but cameos come in a much wider range...
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Picture an antique cameo, and the first image that probably pops into your mind is a woman's profile carved out of white shell against a coral background. That certainly describes a typical Victorian cameo, but cameos come in a much wider range of materials and designs. In fine jewelry, the cameo is defined as an ornament carved in relief from a high-quality material such as stone, shell, coral, Gutta-percha, bog oak, ivory, lava, or mother-of-pearl. In costume jewelry, cameos are generally made from molded plastic or glass. Antique cameos may be carved in high relief, which means the carving projects a notable depth from the background, or low relief, which hardly stands out from the background. The most common motif on antique cameo jewelry is the portrait. In the past, these bore the likeness of an actual person, usually a celebrity of the day—a ruler, scholar, or philosopher. Early in the 19th century, cameos began featuring an anonymous Roman woman wearing no jewelry. Victorian women on the Grand Tour—a traveling rite of passage for upper-class Europeans—sought out lava cameos carved with the mystery woman's image when they were in Italy. These affluent Victorians eventually had a big influence on cameos when they demanded a more familiar-looking lady, with a thinner neck, her hair up, and wearing jewelry. Antique and vintage cameos also incorporated religious figures and scenes, floral motifs, and images from mythology. In particular, ancient Roman motifs have been popular for cameos since they first appeared during the reign of Alexander the Great around third century BCE, when they were made of stones like agate and onyx. In the salons of 18th-century Europe, carved gemstones were all the rage with high-society ladies. Cameo makers of the era would take Plaster of Paris molds of these carved gemstones as records of notable cameo collections. At the time, these antique cameos were a sign of wealth and privilege, but glass paste brought cameos...
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