The modernist jewelers in the United States who practiced their craft from the 1930s through the 1960s were pretty emphatic about their rejection of the styles that had come before. Victorian jewelry was dismissed as too decorative, Art Nouveau pieces were deemed too fussy, and the Art Deco aesthetic was considered excessively rigid.
Modernist jewelers felt they had more in common with painters, sculptors, and other modern artists of the day. Their ambitious goal was to create one-of-a-kind works of art that people could wear.
One of the early champions and practitioners of the form was Sam Kramer, who, like many of his contemporaries, lived, worked, and sold his creations in New York City’s Greenwich Village. Kramer worked primarily in silver, but he was also adept at fashioning rings, earrings, and pins out of copper and found objects, including moose teeth, buttons, fossils, and ancient coins. Sometimes Kramer used semi-precious stones such as garnets or opals in his surreal, geometric, or biomorphic pieces.
Another unofficial leader of the modernist jewelry movement was Kramer’s neighbor Art Smith. His jewelry ranged from simple silver neck rings to biomorphic pieces that drew from African motifs. While Smith made small pieces such as cuff links and earrings, many of his best works were large enough to wrap the body, as if the human form was the mere backdrop for his creations. His vintage copper wrist cuffs, especially the “jazz” cuffs with musical notes applied to their outside surfaces, are highly collectible.
Boomerangs, straight lines intersecting curves, and atomic-age shapes typified Ed Wiener’s work. Sometimes a pair of silver earrings resembling deformed hourglasses were adorned with a single pearl; other times, a cat’s-eye agate would be placed in the center of a piece, as if to give his inanimate objects the semblance of a human face.
Outside New York there was Betty Cooke, who worked in the Bauhaus mode in Baltimore. Her jewelry was composed of geometric shapes and characterized by a strong sense of order, wh...
Another Bauhaus acolyte was Margaret De Patta, whose work reflected the profound influence of Bauhaus teacher Laszlo Moholy-Nagy, with whom she studied. Meanwhile, out in San Francisco, Peter Macchiarini looked to African masks and Cubism for inspiration. Brass, copper, and silver were common materials, along with opals, agates, and wood.
In Scandinavia during the 1940s and ’50s, a parallel movement was underway. Henning Koppel and Nanna Ditzel were two notable Georg Jensen designers, whose silver necklaces sporting amoeba-like and teardrop shapes combined the perfection of Danish silversmithing with an interest in natural, even primal, forms.
Later, in 1960s Finland, Bjorn Weckstrom married solid silver and polished chunks of acrylic to create rings, bracelets, and pendants that were at once space age and organic.
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Recent News: Modernist Jewelry
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From the Village to VogueThe Cincinnati Herald, March 7th
The spirit of craft and its revival will shine through in large scale, highly sculpted pieces of jewelry created by Art Smith and his contemporaries in From the Village to Vogue: The Modernist Jewelry of Art Smith, Feb. 22 through May 18. This...Read more
The Dark Romance of Elie Saab Fall/Winter 2014/2015 @ Paris Fashion WeekSENATUS, March 6th
For this collection, the label has revealed a new accessories signature with strong, structured rectilinear shapes, reminiscent of the clean lines of the clothes, are suspended from chain and leather straps that resemble modernist jewelry. Evening...Read more
Autumn-Winter 2014/2015 ready to wear Elie Saab collection: Dark Opulenceiloubnan.info, March 6th
Strong, structured rectilinear shapes, reminiscent of the clean lines of the clothes, are suspended from chain and leather straps that resemble modernist jewelry. Evening minaudières are bound in gold. The handbags' surface textures are an exercise in ...Read more
Travel Essentials | TokyoNew York Times (blog), March 5th
The catch: There's hardly enough space amid the jewelry and vintage gewgaws to find a perch. Instead, snag the lone table outside, along with one of the shop's excellent pan bagnat or scones with clotted cream. 10-8 Kamiyama-Cho, Shinjuku-ku, 011-81-3...Read more
The Place To BeRapaport, March 5th
Russak says he took a chance and added extremely good silver jewelry — modernist Native American, Mexican — to the mix he brought to the show. And it “attracted probably more attention than any single display we're ever shown. I was really pleased to ...Read more
Playbook: Ride-along with Cuomo challenger; Prospect Park-inspired OscarCapital New York, March 3rd
Spending on luxury apparel, leather goods, watches, jewelry and cosmetics reached $390 billion last year, according to Boston Consulting Group. decades, Graydon Carter's Oscar party been the proving ground for big stars (including himself),” by...Read more
Fun and free things to doCincinnati.com, February 27th
Cocktails and entertainment during evening hours in galleries. Bling + Beats. Travel back in time to Beat Generation era of Greenwich Village, Brooklyn, with From the Village to Vogue: The Modernist Jewelry of Art Smith exhibit and see time of fast...Read more
New Show at CAM Focuses on Modernist Jewelry DesignerCincinnati CityBeat, February 26th
We know that post-World War II Greenwich Village was a center for progressive Modernist arts in the U.S. — Abstract Expressionist painting, the Beats, method actors and Folk musicians like Bob Dylan. But the Village, so full of creativity and new ways...Read more