Today when we think of charm bracelets, the first things that probably come to mind are the modular products of contemporary Italian companies like Zoppini and Unodomani. But charms and charm bracelets have a rightful place in the pantheon of fine jewelry, and there’s no better place to begin than Victorian England.
Queen Victoria wore charm bracelets during her reign, making them a popular fashion accessory among noble Europeans. Sterling silver hearts—some set with precious or semi-precious stones, some puffed up in a style called répoussé—were as popular then as they are now. Hearts with beaded edges were frequently adorned with symbols of love (Cupid’s bow and arrow) or good fortune (shamrocks). Usually one of the hearts on a bracelet would open with a key so the piece could be removed from the wearer’s wrist.
Though not charms in the strict sense, teeth and claws were also favorite Victorian adornments for bracelets. Another practice was to use a bracelet as the armature for a collection of jingling, sterling silver coins.
One of the most highly collectible types of Victorian charms is the mechanical charm. The word "mechanical" refers to any charm with a moving part, such as the legs of Can-Can dancer that kick when you push a lever, or the limbs of a jester that bend when a little chain is pulled.
At the end of the 19th century, charms of all sorts were offered to give wearers a chance to express their personalities. Ride a bicycle? There’s a bicycle charm for you. Into horses? Pick up a gold horse head with a swinging chain below it. And, of course, there were lots of lockets, into which you could put a treasured photograph or some other secret keepsake.
By the 1930s, charms and charm bracelets reflected the Art Deco design sensibility that was in the air. One stunning example that sold recently at Christie’s featured a platinum bracelet studded with diamonds, from which dangled 11 members of a gem-studded band—the straight sides of each cut stone gave the little horn players, guitarist, and other musicians an angular, ’30s look.
Some of the most collectible charms from this period are those created for fraternal organizations such as the Masons, Odd Fellows, and Elks. The Elk charms were perhaps the most...
Less controversial today are the vintage charms made out of plastics such as Bakelite and celluloid. Charms for the latter were shaped into animals (cats, alligators, monkeys, to name but a few), devils and skulls, and mythical creatures (the winged horses are especially nice). There were even charms in the shape of comic-book characters of the day, such as Orphan Annie and Moon Mullins.
One of the many companies that bounced back and forth between fine and costume jewelry was Walter Lampl. Based in New York, the firm was one of the leading producers of charms through the 1950s, when it boasted more than 750 different styles of charms in one of its catalogs.
Lampl charms were made of gold or silver and were often embellished with pearls, rubies and other stones. Lampl heart charms featured enameling and machine-made, guilloche backgrounds, while its mechanical charms were some of the most inventive around. For collectors, Lampl charms are relatively easy to identify because they are one of the few charms with a maker's mark (look for "WL" in a shield).
Indeed, the 1950s was a terrific decade for charms—if you are considering putting together a vintage charm bracelet, you might want to focus on items from that era. Lampl made 14-karat gold charms for the Marchal Company, which sold everything from charms for new moms (storks, strollers, shoes, high chairs, etc.) to charms for high-school students (report cards, school bells, pencil sharpeners, diplomas, and the like). And if that sounds too domestic, choose charms relating to nightlife, such as a lamppost holding up a drunk, an ashtray with a stubbed out cigarette, and a barrel labeled "For Emergency Only" that was designed to hold a couple of aspirin to soften the blow of the inevitable next-day hangover.
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Recent News: Charms and Charm Bracelets
Source: Google News
Man denies stealing ex-partner's £1500 charm braceletPlymouth Herald, July 24th
A MAN stole a charm bracelet worth £1,500 as he split up with his girlfriend, a court heard. Stefan Adamson, aged 26, admitted taking the piece of jewellery as he left the home, a jury was told. He said he did not dishonestly intend to keep the Pandora...Read more
The Charm Bracelet For Your WaistVogue.com, July 23rd
IF YOU Google images of a "chatelaine," you'll find a very tightly edited visual selection of what the word means: "a decorative belt hook or clasp worn at the waist with a series of chains suspended from it". Beautiful, certainly, historical...Read more
Judge Oks Alex And Ani Suit Over Discount Charm Bracelet Prices At BJ'sCBS Local, July 21st
PROVIDENCE, R.I. (AP) – Fashion jewelry maker Alex and Ani has been given the go-ahead by a federal judge to sue BJ's Wholesale Club and others over $1 million worth of charm bracelets it says it was tricked into selling at discount prices. U.S...Read more
Rebecca to take on leather charm bracelet marketProfessional Jeweller, July 21st
Rebecca Jewellery is making a push into the leather wraparound charm bracelet market as the trend for personalised jewellery continues to gain ground. Italian jewellery brand Rebecca is gearing up to tackle the wraparound leather charm bracelet market ...Read more
Friday soaps: Is there finally some movement on Coronation and EastEnders ...Mirror.co.uk, July 10th
Weeks after Tina's death, some actual evidence comes to light as Tracy Barlow decides to wear the lovely charm bracelet Deirdre and Eccles found at The Bistro – sorry, Just Nick's, as it's now been renamed – where Steph is quick to spot that it looks...Read more
Natalie picks up Brazilian lucky charm bracelet, hopes it helps USAToday.com, July 1st
Video: In TODAY's Take, Willie Geist and Tamron Hall chat with Natalie Morales, who's in Brazil for the U.S.-Belgium World Cup match on Tuesday. Natalie says she received a charm she hopes will bring luck to the U.S. “It is a do-or-die situation,” she...Read more
My charm bracelet collectionNewsday, June 27th
I have a charm bracelet collection. My collection started when I was 4. I got three bracelets. I wore them to school every day. Ever since, every birthday, Christmas and vacation, I've asked for charm bracelets. I have chains of all different colors...Read more
N-Style ID Announces New Medical Bangle Charm BraceletPR.com (press release), June 25th
Incline Village, NV, June 25, 2014 --(PR.com)-- N-Style ID, a leading manufacturer of medical jewelry, today announced the addition of a new medical bangle charm bracelet to their growing line of jewelry for medical patients -- along with necklaces...Read more