Henry Schreiner got his start designing costume jewelry for Trigère, Norell, and Christian Dior in the late 1940s, but he’s best known for the necklaces, pins, and earrings produced by his own firm, founded in 1951. Schreiner’s signature was to invert the position of his kite-shaped rhinestones within the open-prong settings of his pieces. He was also famous for his ruffle brooches, which featured kite-shaped crystals overlapping and radiating from a central, signature gem.