Bakelite was an early plastic resin, developed by Leo Baekeland in 1907. Originally used for industrial purposes thanks to its ability to withstand heat, molded Bakelite and its cast cousin, Catalin, made the jump to costume jewelry in the 1920s and had their heyday in the 1930s and ’40s.

Costume-jewelry manufacturers were attracted to Bakelite for numerous reasons. First, it was hard enough to cut and polish, which made it a terrific choice for everything from brooches to beads to bracelets, its most popular application. Techniques ranged from scratching the surface lightly in repeated or decorative patterns to outright carving. Some carved pieces have deep valleys and furrows; others sport patterns that suggest the outside of a pineapple or the facets of a jewel.

Equally appealing was Bakelite’s range of colors, which were given names like Creamed Corn, Butterscotch, Egg Yolk, and Salmon. Some types of Bakelite were marbled—Mississippi Mud, Creamed Spinach, and Chocolate Sundae capture the character of these mixed hues beautifully. Less common was translucent Bakelite in Root Beer, Lime Jell-O, and Cherry Juice.

While some Bakelite costume jewelry was fashioned from solid blocks of a single color, many more began as laminated pieces, in which horizontal or zigzag layers of complementary colors were combined. Sometimes pieces were laminated to create polka dots; other times polka dots were hand painted on an object’s surface, and in the 1950s polka dots and gumdrop shapes were injected into Bakelite during the manufacturing process itself.

Of the brooches and pins, one of the most popular treatments during the Art Deco 1930s was to combine Ebony Bakelite—an imitation of the jet pieces from the Victorian era—with rhinestones or inlaid silver. Egyptian motifs were in vogue, as were pins in the shapes of animals (cats, camels, dogs, birds) and plants, especially flowers and clusters of dangling cherries. Especially collectible are the World War II era MacArthur Hearts, which consisted of a 3-by-3-inch key-shaped pin, from which dangled a puffy red heart with a keyhole in its center—it was sold with a card that read "He holds the key to my heart."

The most famous use of Bakelite in jewelry was as bracelets. Many of these were formed of large, block- or medallion-shaped beads that were strung together on strips of elastic. Other Bakelite bracelets were hinged, carved into the shapes of serpents, or left open at the back so they could be easily slipped onto a wrist. Some bracelets incorporated chrome accents into their designs, others combined Bakelite with Czech glass.

But the most collectible types of Bakelite bangles are the so-called Philadelphia bracelets, which take their name from a Philadelphia auction in 1985 that featured two of these remarkable pieces. Philadelphia bracelets are always laminated in colors that include green, red, and yellow. The best pieces are hinged, and feature either multicolor laminated wedges or individually colored slices that have been glued onto the bracelet body, which is usually a rich shade of Butterscotch.


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Recent News: Bakelite Costume Jewelry

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Shopping in the past... for the presents
Greensburg Daily News, December 16th

Starting with the women on my list, I headed for a local resale shop to check out the jewelry and accessories. For my youngest niece, I found a cluster of brightly colored '50s Bakelite bangle bracelets and for her sister a rhinestone choker. Knowing...Read more

Gifts to Take Home for the Holidays
The Beijinger (blog), December 13th

This weekend will be the fifth time I've boarded a flight from Beijing Capital Airport bound for London, to spend Christmas in my home country. I'll admit I've struggled this year to come up with original and imaginative gifts for friends and relatives...Read more

Kovels.com Top 20 Antiques and Collectibles Searches for November 2014
Press Release Rocket, December 11th

Jewelry (No. 9): Bakelite jewelry prices are down while prices of artist-designed jewelry and jewelry with large colored stones have gone up. Artist-designed pieces often aren't even made by the artists themselves but their names and fame create demand...Read more

Business is swell at a much-loved East Bay button shop
Berkeleyside, December 10th

In the East Bay, if you're looking for buttons, be they glass, wood, resin, metal, mother of pearl, Bakelite or other, you'd better go meet Mary Sortile, the proprietor of Exclusive Buttons on San Pablo Avenue. She has thousands and thousands of them...Read more

Shopping guide
Los Angeles Times, December 5th

This winter, fine jewelry is inspired by nature's wonders (Page 30-31). Jacquie Aiche ... Fernando Jorge 18-karat rose-gold Fusion Tall amethyst ring with rubies and rhodolites $7,830, Reinhold Jewelers, Puerto Rico; (787) 754-0528 or fernandojorge.co...Read more

Retro Hollywood sets make stylish collectibles
Palm Beach Daily News, December 4th

Hollywood in the 1940s brought lots of Lucite and similar materials to the attention of the public – Bakelite-base lamps and, for sure, Bakelite jewelry, from bracelets to linked necklaces adorned with hanging cherries. Everyone of a certain age...Read more

At a Paris Flea Market, Tips for Treasure Hunters
New York Times, November 27th

I introduced them to the button man with thousands of Bakelite buttons sewn on to their original cards, and the woman with the collection of 10-euro cuff links. I also logged on to vide-greniers.org, the website that announces weekly street markets...Read more

The Ghosts of Bhopal
Toronto Star, November 21st

ever-present Union Carbide products included the Bakelite trademark, ensuring the company's growing presence in the American home via that ubiquitous, milky-toned synthetic plastic used in the manufacture of a broad range of goods, from jewelry to...Read more