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Known for its use of Swarovski crystals and colored stones, as well as superior craftsmanship and attention to detail, Eisenberg & Sons was one of the most highly regarded costume jewelry manufacturers in the 1930s and '40s. The company was famous for its replicas of 18th-century fine jewelry, which appeared authentic right down to the pewter-colored metal. Eisenberg also produced stunning figurals, often set in sterling silver.

Eisenberg & Sons actually began as a women’s clothing company in 1914 when Jonas Eisenberg founded the firm. Jewelry was used to decorate the clothing to make it more appealing to customers. Unfortunately, the jewelry kept getting stolen because it was so attractive...

Today, collectors can recognize an authentic piece of vintage Eisenberg jewelry by its mark. The words "Eisenberg Original" were used from roughly 1935 to 1945, while just plain "Eisenberg" or "Eisenberg Ice" was used from about 1945 to 1950. To make matters more complicated, silver pieces made from 1943 to 1948 were called "Eisenberg Sterling" and some Eisenberg pieces created between 1952 and 1970 have no trademark stamp at all.

In terms of the forms themselves, look for medallion-like pins and clips festooned with aqua, ruby, and crystal stones. Many Eisenberg pieces are abstract and vaguely organic, but others resemble kings, queens, mermaids, and ballerinas.

Animals were also Eisenberg favorites. Some were relatively straightforward embellishments of horses, zebras, birds, and butterflies, but other Eisenberg brooches told mini-stories, like the one depicting Puss in Boots or a clip called Piggy Goes to Market from 1941 that Eisenberg created for the Eaves Costume Company.

More generic, but no less dazzling, are the vintage Eisenberg rhinestone-studded bows, rhinestone clips with an Art Deco look, and brooches made entirely of cabochons. Some clips were intended to be sewn into a garment; rare examples were sold in pairs and joined by chains.

Other vintage Eisenberg pieces of note include the sterling silver pieces set with a type of quartz called citrine, which Eisenberg cleverly branded as "Topaz quartz." In the mid-1940s, the company also made a few pieces in 14-carat gold, as well as a collection of turquoise pieces crafted by artisans in Mexico. Finally, the enameled pieces from the 1970s are quite charming, including the hand-painted, 18-carat gold pins and earrings in the Artists Series, as well as the simple, enameled brooches of yellow sunflowers, cream water lilies, and purple trees with matching earrings.

Key terms for Vintage Eisenberg Costume Jewelry:

Cabochon: A stone that has been shaped and polished instead of faceted. It usually has a flat back and a shape that is round or oval.

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Interviews & Articles

Rhinestone Dynasty: Karl Eisenberg Talks About His Family's Costume Jewelry

1. The Eisenberg jewelry line was born out of a need to thwart thieves. "It was probably in the early '20s when the Swarovski cry… [more]

Carole Tanenbaum on Costume Jewelry's 'Wow' Factor

My husband and I have many collections. We were in London at one point in the ’80s, and I saw a fabulous collection of vintage cos… [more]

To Restore or Not to Restore? A Look at Vintage Rhinestone Jewelry

My parents had a second-hand store in Orlando, Florida. They sold furniture and clothing. They would buy estates, and there was al… [more]

How Miriam Haskell Costume Jewelry Bucked Trends and Won Over Hollywood

I’ve been interested in jewelry since I was in high school. I’ll be 60 in September, so that’s a lot of years. I wore jewelry and … [more]

Christie Romero on Differences Between Fine and Costume Jewelry Over the Decades

I started out with general antiques and collectibles... I was a dealer for a while and bought and sold all kinds of things. Gradua… [more]

Costume Jewelry, Beyond June Cleaver

Most women own at least a few pieces of costume jewelry, perhaps received as hand-me-downs from family members. Too often, though,… [more]

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Clubs & Associations: Costume Jewelry

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