Since the 1920s, Trifari has been one of the most respected and admired producers of costume jewelry in the United States. Founded in the 1910s by Gustavo Trifari, the Italian-immigrant son of a Napoli goldsmith, the company has designed jewelry that’s been worn by countless high-profile clients, from Mamie Eisenhower to Madonna.
The success of Trifari, and the reason for its collectibility today, is most often credited to French designer Alfred Philippe, the company’s chief designer from 1930 until 1968. His use of invisible settings for stones, which he originally developed for Van Cleef and Arpels, added a level of craftsmanship and technique that had not been previously seen in costume jewelry.
Among Philippe’s countless contributions are the Trifari Crown pins from the late 1930s to the 1950s. The crowns were so popular that Trifari incorporated a crown into its mark in about 1937. Authentic Trifari jewelry is typically marked with "Jewels by Trifari," "TKF" (for Trifari, Krussman & Fishel), or "Trifari," depending on when it was made.
Some of the Trifari Crown pins feature eye-catching, brightly colored cabochons. Others are composed entirely of clear crystal rhinestones for a monochromatic effect. Naturally, a series of Coronation Gems was produced in 1953 to celebrate the ascendancy of Elizabeth II to the British throne.
Trifari’s Jelly Belly pins of seals, poodles, roosters, and other animals appeared in the 1940s. Each animal’s "belly" consists of a solid Lucite "pearl" with settings of sterling silver or gold plate. Although any Jelly Belly from this decade is going to command a good price, the poodles are especially rare.
Other categories of vintage Trifari costume jewelry to look for are the vintage floral pins from the 1930s and the fruit and vegetable pieces from the 1950s. In particular, collectors like the miniature fruit pins (apples, pineapples, grape bunches, and strawberries, to name a few) from the late 1950s through the 1960s. These single pieces, usually finished in a matte silver or gold, were worn by themselves or in groups. Also popular are the patriotic pins from the 1940s of American flags and red-white-and-blue eagles.
Like all manufacturers during World War II, Trifari was unable to use metal in its products due to rationing. This forced Trifari to switch to sterling silver during the war, which tripled prices for Trifari products (although that didn’t seem to hurt sales). Post-war, Trifari wanted to go back to less costly, maintenance-free metal, but its audience was now used to silver. To hype the return to a cheaper base metal, the company began advertising a "revolutionary" new metal called Trifanium, which was a made-up name for their basic metal — unlike silver, it could be given a no-polish rhodium finish...
The campaign worked so well that by 1953, Mamie Eisenhower felt perfectly comfortable to break with tradition and wear costume jewelry to the inaugural ball. To match the First Lady’s pink satin gown (studded with 2,000 rhinestones), Alfred Philippe designed an "orientique" pearl choker with matching three-stranded bracelet and earrings, each laden with eight pearls. Three sets were made: one for the First Lady, a second for the Smithsonian, and a third for the Trifari archives. Mrs. Eisenhower was so pleased with the ensemble that she had Trifari make jewelry for her second inaugural ball in 1957.
Key terms for Vintage Trifari Costume Jewelry:
Cabochon: A stone that has been shaped and polished instead of faceted. It usually has a flat back and a shape that is round or oval.
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Kovels.com Top 20 Antiques and Collectibles Searches for January 2015PR Web (press release), February 6th
Collectors like other designer things too, especially costume jewelry and purses. Buyers look for top named "fashion" items, or things that look like top fashion items, like jewelry by Trifari and accessories by Chanel. They're often found in...Read more
Art & Antiques with Dr. Lori: Valentine's DayLancasterOnline, February 5th
Jewelry: Collectors love both fine jewelry featuring gold, silver or another precious metal and gemstones, as well as costume jewelry by makers such as Sarah Coventry, Weiss, Trifari, Coro, Monet and Maravella. — Candy boxes: Russell Stover, Godiva...Read more
Art and Antiques: Collectors love Valentine's keepsakesCentre Daily Times, January 31st
Jewelry: There is nothing quite like getting a piece of fine jewelry featuring gold, silver, or other precious metals and gemstones. Costume jewelry also is a popular Valentine's gift by makers such as Sarah Coventry, Weiss, Trifari, Coro, Monet and...Read more
New and old: 'Bling Thing' fundraiser to benefit historic Hackley Public ...MLive.com, January 28th
Jewelry, purses, scarves, hats, belts, clothing, home décor and things with "bling" will be on sale at the Century Club Ballroom, 356 W. Western Ave., in downtown Muskegon. Proceeds from the two-day sale will be used to benefit the library's programs...Read more
Madeleine Albright wore her emotions in her pinsKansas City Star (blog), December 5th
Jewelry used as a beguiling method of messaging would never have happened had the secretary of state not been a woman. And Albright was the first woman to hold that position, from 1997 to 2001, easing the way for Condoleezza Rice and Hillary Clinton ...Read more
WAY BACK WHEN IN WAYNE COUNTY: Sarah Coventry rose and fell in NewarkFinger Lakes Times, November 23rd
Wolf had been with Trifari, a well-known jewelry company. Several home party firms were studied and Aileen VanTyle of Newark was hired to construct several test fashion shows. She became Sarah Coventry's fashion coordinator — a pioneer in her field...Read more
Free appraisal event set at EJ's Auction & ConsignmentYourWestValley.com, November 19th
Costume jewelry: Most costume jewelry isn't worth much, but some pieces, like those made by Trifari, can be worth more than gold or diamonds. • Old-looking art: It might look dingy, but that painting that's been collecting dust in the garage or attic...Read more
Treemont Retirement Community to welcome Antique Pickers BazaarChron.com, October 13th
The answer may become evident as they discover that Grandma's pottery vase, that favorite doll or other vintage toy, and odd pieces of costume jewelry have become collector's items. Who knew that a Trifari pin from the 1950s would be valuable, or that...Read more