Since the 1920s, Trifari has been one of the most respected and admired producers of costume jewelry in the United States. Founded in the 1910s by Gustavo Trifari, the Italian-immigrant son of a Napoli goldsmith, the company has designed jewelry that’s been worn by countless high-profile clients, from Mamie Eisenhower to Madonna.
The success of Trifari, and the reason for its collectibility today, is most often credited to French designer Alfred Philippe, the company’s chief designer from 1930 until 1968. His use of invisible settings for stones, which he originally developed for Van Cleef and Arpels, added a level of craftsmanship and technique that had not been previously seen in costume jewelry.
Among Philippe’s countless contributions are the Trifari Crown pins from the late 1930s to the 1950s. The crowns were so popular that Trifari incorporated a crown into its mark in about 1937. Authentic Trifari jewelry is typically marked with "Jewels by Trifari," "TKF" (for Trifari, Krussman & Fishel), or "Trifari," depending on when it was made.
Some of the Trifari Crown pins feature eye-catching, brightly colored cabochons. Others are composed entirely of clear crystal rhinestones for a monochromatic effect. Naturally, a series of Coronation Gems was produced in 1953 to celebrate the ascendancy of Elizabeth II to the British throne.
Trifari’s Jelly Belly pins of seals, poodles, roosters, and other animals appeared in the 1940s. Each animal’s "belly" consists of a solid Lucite "pearl" with settings of sterling silver or gold plate. Although any Jelly Belly from this decade is going to command a good price, the poodles are especially rare.
Other categories of vintage Trifari costume jewelry to look for are the vintage floral pins from the 1930s and the fruit and vegetable pieces from the 1950s. In particular, collectors like the miniature fruit pins (apples, pineapples, grape bunches, and strawberries, to name a few) from the late 1950s through the 1960s. These single pieces, usually finished in a matte silver or gold, were worn by themselves or in groups. Also popular are the patriotic pins from the 1940s of American flags and red-white-and-blue eagles.
Like all manufacturers during World War II, Trifari was unable to use metal in its products due to rationing. This forced Trifari to switch to sterling silver during the war, which tripled prices for Trifari products (although that didn’t seem to hurt sales). Post-war, Trifari wanted to go back to less costly, maintenance-free metal, but its audience was now used to silver. To hype the return to a cheaper base metal, the company began advertising a "revolutionary" new metal called Trifanium, which was a made-up name for their basic metal — unlike silver, it could be given a no-polish rhodium finish...
The campaign worked so well that by 1953, Mamie Eisenhower felt perfectly comfortable to break with tradition and wear costume jewelry to the inaugural ball. To match the First Lady’s pink satin gown (studded with 2,000 rhinestones), Alfred Philippe designed an "orientique" pearl choker with matching three-stranded bracelet and earrings, each laden with eight pearls. Three sets were made: one for the First Lady, a second for the Smithsonian, and a third for the Trifari archives. Mrs. Eisenhower was so pleased with the ensemble that she had Trifari make jewelry for her second inaugural ball in 1957.
Key terms for Vintage Trifari Costume Jewelry:
Cabochon: A stone that has been shaped and polished instead of faceted. It usually has a flat back and a shape that is round or oval.
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Answer: Your Uncle Sam top hat pin, a popular World War II-era piece, was made by Trifari, Krussman & Fishel, New York City jewelry manufacturers. Italian immigrant Gustave Trifari founded the company in 1910, and by 1925 it had become a corporation ...Read more
HIDDEN HISTORY: Batavia area stores 50 years ago, 1965The Daily News Online (blog), May 9th
Costume jewelry was from $1 to $18 and handbags from $2.98 to $18. Carr's Department Store -- Among the Mother's Day specials at ''Batavia's finest store'' were jewelry by Trifari for $3, bulky style sweaters for $12.98, dainty hankies from 69 cents ad...Read more
Kate Spade & Company Reports First Quarter 2015 ResultsPR Newswire (press release), May 7th
Net sales for the first quarter of 2015, excluding sales for wind-down operations, were $240 million, an increase of $53 million, or 28.4% compared to the first quarter of 2014, adjusting 2014 net sales for wind-down operations and excluding the...Read more
Art and Antiques: Collectors love Valentine's keepsakesCentre Daily Times, January 31st
Jewelry: There is nothing quite like getting a piece of fine jewelry featuring gold, silver, or other precious metals and gemstones. Costume jewelry also is a popular Valentine's gift by makers such as Sarah Coventry, Weiss, Trifari, Coro, Monet and...Read more
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Wolf had been with Trifari, a well-known jewelry company. Several home party firms were studied and Aileen VanTyle of Newark was hired to construct several test fashion shows. She became Sarah Coventry's fashion coordinator — a pioneer in her field...Read more