There have been numerous times throughout history when a woman with naked wrists wasn’t considered properly dressed. In the early days of the Victorian era, for example, bracelets were of utmost importance, worn on each wrist, sometimes two or three pairs at a time. Chain bracelets were the most popular style, usually fastened with a hand motif or a filigree-covered heart padlock. Sometimes the clasps were coded with precious jewels or colored paste glass, with the first letter of the gemstone (Ruby, Emerald, Garnet, Amethyst, Diamond, Sapphire, Turquoise) spelling out words like “REGARDED” or “DEAREST.”

The queen herself is considered responsible for the most romantic styles, spurred by her tragic love story with Prince Albert, whose early death she mourned for the rest of her life. Victoria was fond of charm bracelets, with charms made out of sterling silver and gemstones, including puffy hearts, lockets, cameos, coins, and mechanical charms that had moving parts. Many of these charm bracelets were made of mourning trinkets, like a locket or container holding the hair of a deceased loved one, as well as teeth, claws, stones, and shells with significance to the wearer.

A hundred years later, in the 1950s, the charm bracelet experienced a revival in the United States, this time as costume jewelry and made of much cheaper material. The fad, popularized by the likes of Jacqueline Kennedy and Elizabeth Taylor, was a lot more light-hearted and fun than the grim Victorian originals. A girl would start a charm bracelet at a young age, with each new charm commemorating a milestone in her life. Charms made by Walter Lampi, most famous for his enamel hearts, are among the most collectible of this era...

Bracelets, of course, come in a wide variety of designs and styles, including beaded and link bracelets, cuffs, and bangles. Another style that originated in the Victorian era was made out of woven hair or rope-like metal cannetille work, often in Pinchbeck brass, an alloy of copper and zinc. The finely stitched cannetille wire could be shaped into interlocking links, flowers, shells, curls, or coils on the bracelet, which usually featured a huge decorative clasp.

As new materials and manufacturing techniques emerged in the 1920s and '30s, bracelets became even more wildly diverse and creative. The Art Deco movement brought about all sorts of link costume-jewelry bracelets—the rectangular Renaissance Revival style and more circular Czech style featured delicate patterns of filigree, enamel, and stone, while the Geometric style coming out of Germany and England were more streamlined and spare.

But the defining bracelet of the '20s and '30s was the bangle, popularized by the edgy flapper look. The Paris Colonial Exhibition of 1922 prompted a craze for wide bangles made of ivory. British socialite and trendsetter Nancy Clara Cunard wore armfuls of these large, bone-like bangles.

A flapper might adorn herself with an ivory bangle, sometimes paste-studded, just above her elbow, with a chiffon handkerchief tucked into it. These chic young women often piled jade or ivory bangles, stiff bracelets in a circular shape, on their slender wrists to show off the slinkiness of their scandalously exposed arms. The most outrageous among them stacked bangles from wrist to elbow, like bold, abstract ribbons, sometimes with Asian or Egyptian motifs.

Thanks to 20th-century innovations in plastics, the craze—which lasted well into the '50s and '60s—took on wild colors, with costume-jewelry bangles manufactured in all shapes, sizes, and patterns. Bakelite was the most popular material for these eye-popping arm ornaments. Some of the most treasured, known as Philadelphia bangles, came in vibrant combinations of opaque butterscotch, rust, and avocado.

Bangles made of Bakelite or celluloid could also be carved; a clear tinted bangle might have a motif like a fish carved into the back, so it appears to be suspended in amber. Bangles made in clear "Apple Juice" colored Bakelite are among the most sought-after.

The machine age, as well as women's new-found independence, sparked the cold and severe '30s cocktail style of jewelry, which emphasized the rhythm and movements of a factory assembly line—incorporating theories of Bauhaus, Futurism, Cubism, and Abstract Expressionism. These heavy, chrome or gilt, armor-like bracelets might have large stones, or flexible metal links shaped like bricks, bows, or even tire tracks alluding to factory mechanization or moving staircases.

During World War II, when women took over factory jobs for the soldiers abroad, bracelet design become even more explicitly obsessed with industry, as ball bearings, screw-heads, girders, pipes, rods, cogs, washers, nuts, and bolts were incorporated into ultra-modern arm wear.

More glamorous styles of 20th-century bangles and bracelets were pavé-set or beaded with diamante or colored rhinestones. In particular, Coro's Vendome line, launched in 1953, emulated the glittery look of the high-end fine jewelry worn by the most elegant Hollywood stars.

About our sources | Got something to add?

▼ Expand to read the full article ▼

Interviews & Articles

Trendspotting: Piling on the Vintage Bracelets

You can stay incredibly up-to-date and stylish while wearing costume jewelry. I prefer vintage pieces for several reasons. For one… [more]

Carole Tanenbaum on Costume Jewelry's 'Wow' Factor

My husband and I have many collections. We were in London at one point in the ’80s, and I saw a fabulous collection of vintage cos… [more]

Christie Romero on Differences Between Fine and Costume Jewelry Over the Decades

I started out with general antiques and collectibles... I was a dealer for a while and bought and sold all kinds of things. Gradua… [more]



Best of the Web (“Hall of Fame”)

Researching Costume Jewelry

Researching Costume Jewelry

Jewelry lovers, venture through this amazing database of vintage jewelry articles, catalogs, and brochures, as well… [read review or visit site]

Emerald City Vintage Costume Jewelry

Emerald City Vintage Costume Jewelry

It looks like we're not in Kansas anymore with Elizabeth Rowlands' site on vintage costume jewelry from the 1940s a… [read review or visit site]

Collecting Costume Jewelry

Collecting Costume Jewelry

Carol Bell's simple but informative site focuses on photographs of brooches, bracelets, pendants, and pins, with an… [read review or visit site]

Morning Glory Antiques and Jewelry

Morning Glory Antiques and Jewelry

Jewelry collectors, feast your eyes on this internet gem! It's a goldmine of jewelry information featuring all styl… [read review or visit site]

All About Jewels Dictionary

All About Jewels Dictionary

This incredible reference dictionary on jewelry, from Enchantedlearning.com, is both beautiful and comprehensive. S… [read review or visit site]

Cathy Gordon's Jewelry Gallery

Cathy Gordon's Jewelry Gallery

With its vast galleries featuring clear images of jewelry and style, this site really covers it all! Divided up by … [read review or visit site]



Clubs & Associations

Top eBay Auctions

Showing 60. See all 1,133 by  highest bidmost watchedcompleted
Har Genie Fortune Teller Gold Tone Rinestones Wide Links Vintage Bracelet 7-1/4"Schiaparelli Massive Rootbeer Rhinestone& Cabochon Molded Glass BraceletVintage Bakelite Muticolor Striped Bangle BraceletVintage Juliana Wheat& Flower Necklace, Bracelet, Brooch, Earring SetJuliana Parure 4 Pc Set! Watermelon Rhinestones Necklace Brooch 5 Link Bracelet Chanel Medallion Gold Tone 10" Bracelet In Chanel Box - Great Price! Nr Elegant D&e Juliana Aurora Borealis Ab/black Glass Necklace Bracelet EarringsBig Estate Sterling Jewelry Collection! 50 Pc! Sets~! Bracelets*necklaces++Joseff Of Hollywood Russian Gold Leaf & Pine Cone BraceletVintage Bakelite Bangle Bracelet Clamper Lot Prystal Marbled Red Orange TestedVintage Juliana D&e Emerald Peridot Citrine Ab Crystal Rhinestone Bracelet NrHar Spectacular! Vintage Rhinestone Enamel Dragon Clamper Bracelet Earrings SetColorful Reverse Carved And Painted Bakelite Bangle Bracelet With Deco Design250+ Huge Vintage Costume Jewelry Lot Brooch Pin Bracelet Rhinestone Earrings NeMcclelland BarclayFabulous Vintage Sterling Silver Stephen Dweck Egyptian Revival Cuff BraceletCoro Quivering Camellias Duette Schiaparelli Mazer Kjl Brooches Bracelet Lot18 Pc Repair Lot 4 Sets 7-5 Link Bracelets Necklaces Brooch Rhinestones Juliana Vintage Hobe Bracelet, Brooch & Earring Set - Beautiful And In Good Condition!Vintage Transparent Art Bangle Bracelets-lot Of 120 Selling Out BraceletsAntique Victorian Carved Faux Ivory Bangle BraceletRare- Vtg Juliana (d&e) For Weiss Crystal & Rhinestone Bracelet- AwesomeLunch At The Ritz Carnival Bracelet With Original CardJudith Leiber Red Enamel & Gold Bracelet Vintage No ReserveVintage D&e Juliana Pink Rhinestone Bracelet - Book! - Mint!Ciner Ruby Red & Sparkling Ice Rhinestone Cabochon Vintage BraceletAntique Micro Mosaic Scarab Floral Bracelet Circa 1930s Rare!Superb Antique Whitby Jet & Carved Bone Thistle Mourning BraceletVintage Jewelry Lot Huge Estate Designer Costume Fine Pins Necklaces Bracelets +Vintage Lot Bracelet Gigantic! Glass Rhinestones Gemstones Charms Wow! Lot68200+ Huge Vintage Costume Jewelry Lot Brooch Pin Bracelet Rhinestone Earrings NeVintage Beautiful Art Deco Sterling Rhinestone Bangle BraceletVintage Signed Swarovski Aurora Borealis Bezel Crystal Necklace Bracelet SetVintage 1976 Charles Revson Signed Aldo Cipullo 18k Gold Friendship Bracelet Stephen Dweck~vintage~signed~sterling Silver~amethyst/glass~6 Station BraceletCoro-craft (50g) Vintage Sterling Brooch Rhinestones? Free "bonus Coro" BraceletUnique Japan Silver Tone Filigree Enamel Wide 3 Dimensional Bracelet Deco Box NrLot Of 45 Vintage Sterling Silver Charms & Charm Bracelets 3dmoveables 3.24 OzVintage Beautiful Art Deco Sterling Rhinestone Bangle BraceletSherman - Deep Purple & Lilac Ab - Five Row 1" Wide Crystal Bracelet NrVintage Miriam Haskell Chain Charm BraceletVintage Antique Gold Filled Gf Bracelet Hinged Bangle Etch Engraved Signed WjbMiriam Haskell Necklace, Bracelet And Earrings. Demi-parure. Repair NeededRare Vintage Marcel Boucher Rhodium Plate Ruby Crystal Rhinestone Bow BraceletSuperb Antique Carved Whitby Jet Lily-of-the-valley Cameo Mourning BraceletVintage Bakelite Bracelets Lot Of 9, Orange, Red And Yellow Vintage Art Deco Rare Max Neiger Egyptian Revival BraceletVintage Oriental Tortoise Buckle Bracelet W/ Inlayed Orental Writting & Design Huge Vintage 175+ Pc Rhinestone Estate Jewelry Lot Pin Earring Necklace BraceletVintage Clamper Bracelet With Clear Weiss Quality Rhinestone CrystalsVintage Black Bakelite Stretch Bracelet With Floral MotifAntique 19thc Berber Silver Ornate Hinged Bracelet With Aquamarine Glass Stones Antique Faux Ivory Bone Carved Bangle Bracelet, Costume Jewelry Unique PieceMiriam Haskell Amethyst Geode Purple Glass Necklace Bracelet Earring SetLot Bakelite Diamond Green Necklace Turtle Brooch Chocolate Brown Bracelet Pik Jeweled Figural Mesh Bracelet Rare No ReserveRare Early Hobe' Bracelet & Earrings- White & Pink Ribbon Glass Stones No ResPauline Rader Emerald & Pearl Clamper Bracelet Vintage No ReserveRare Weiss Mint Green Bakelite Ab Aurora Borealis Clamper Bracelet HingedVintage Crown Trifari Silver Chrome Moderist Necklace & Bracelet