Turquoise, formed from hydrated copper aluminum phosphate, is one of the earliest gemstones ever mined, starting 3,000 years ago in Persia (now Iran). The sky-blue stone mined there was treasured because it was believed to have healing properties and the ability to protect or warn the wearer of evil.

Because of its scarcity, this beautiful blue turquoise is no longer mined in Iran, and so antique Persian turquoise jewelry, often carved and inlaid with gold, is extremely valuable. Such pieces, like necklaces and amulets, first came to Europe through Turkey, hence the name, “turquoise.”

However, this microcrystalline conchoidal stone has been found all over the globe, including in the former USSR, Afghanistan, Australia, Brazil, China, Chile, Australia, Tanzania, Turkestan, England, Mexico, and the United States. Cultures throughout Asia, Africa, and the Americas have attributed spiritual powers to turquoise.

The light and fragile material can range from opaque to semi-translucent, with a waxy to dull luster, and its colors, which vary based on their iron and copper content, span from China blue to deep blue, and from blue-green to yellowy green. In Tibet, green is the most valued color of turquoise.

Turquoise often has “inclusions” from the mother stone or “matrix” that held the turquoise as it formed, and this creates a “spiderweb” effect of brown, black, or ochre veins. Sometimes the spiderwebbing that perforates turquoise nuggets can make them easy to break apart if not handled correctly. Turquoise mined in the U.S. and Mexico is greener and often has more inclusions than the vein-free sky-blue version treasured in Persia.

Turquoise may be used for beads, cabochons, or carved pieces like cameos in necklaces, earrings, bracelets, brooches, and belt buckles. The most valuable turquoise available today comes from the Sleeping Beauty mines in Arizona; ideally, it is dark blue and matrix-free. A row of this grade of turquoise in 12mm round beads should cost as much as a row of 4.5mm faceted rubies.

In the late 1800s, Navajo artisans began to incorporate turquoise mined locally into their silver jewelry, but it was quickly mined out. A trader named Lorenzo Hubble began to import cut turquoise from Persia for the Native Americans to use. Then, in the early 1900s, a new mine for cut turquoise opened in Nevada. Soon other American mines followed. By then, it was expected that Native American jewelry would include turquoise...

Zuni, Hopi, Navajo, and other tribes all developed distinct turquoise styles. For example, the Navajo created what is known as the “squash blossom” necklace style, which features a crescent-shaped pendant covered with turquoise beads. This style may have come from the pomegranate motif that the Spanish conquistadors brought to Mexico, but there is little evidence the Native Americans intended this design to represent that flower. This style was also adopted by the Zuni.

Zuni jewelry is known for its rows of “snake eyes,” which are small, rounded, high-domed cabochons, often made of turquoise or coral, as well as its “petit point” jewelry, a style that originated in the 1920s and is made of tiny hand-cut rounded, oval, or square turquoise clustered in unique designs. The Pueblo tribes, and particularly the San Domingo tribe, were known for their use of turquoise in mosaic jewelry, as well as their disk- or tube-shaped heishe beads. The Zuni were the first to introduce turquoise animal-shaped fetish beads.

If the turquoise in such Native American pieces has a matrix in it, sometimes it is also possible to identify which U.S. mine the stone came from, but not always.

In the 1950s and ’60s, several of the most glamorous jewelry collectors in the United States and Europe, such as Ava Gardner, had parures with pendent earrings, necklaces, bracelets, and brooches fashioned out of large sky-blue and matrix-free Persian turquoise beads set with small, faceted diamonds.

Actress Merle Oberon wore such a parure, one from her own collection, for her role as a glamorous duchess in the 1967 movie “Hotel.” Opera singer Renata Tebaldi wore a costume jewelry piece for her lead role in “Adriana Lecouvreur” in Spain. Later, she had the set upgraded with real diamonds and turquoise. Countess Mona Bismarck had two particularly exquisite floral-themed turquoise-bead necklaces, one with a résille net setting and another made with twisted gold wire.

In the ’70s, Native American jewelry became wildly popular, to the point that United States mines were overwhelmed by the demand. Once again, Native American traders had to start importing Persian turquoise. This time, buyers focused on particular artisans and skilled jewelry makers such as Robert Sorrell, Charles Loloma, Lambert Homer, and Porfilio Sheyka.

Most turquoise jewelry on the market today, particularly if it is affordable, is imitation turquoise, or low-grade turquoise treated to have a more attractive appearance. In fact, imitation turquoise goes back to the Victorians, who were the first to use glass to mimic the stone; it is difficult to distinguish from the real thing, but if you spot bubbles under the surface, you are looking at glass.

Enamel turquoise tends to have a greater luster than real turquoise. Other stones like howlite, fossil bone, limestone, and chalcedony are stained and sold as turquoise, too. In 1972, a French company called Gilson produced imitation turquoise in the lab, and even gave it the spiderweb matrix.

Natural turquoise may also be treated. Reconstructed or pressed turquoise is made of turquoise powder or chips mixed with liquid plastic resin, which is then dyed and baked. This cheap material can be identified by looking at it under magnification or heating it, as it will reveal a burning plastic smell.

Most real American turquoise may turn green in response to light, oil, heat, and water, so it should be treated with care. Because it is more porous than Persian turquoise, American turquoise is stabilized by soaking it in resin or impregnating it with wax. This is to keep it from crumbling and does not affect the value. Enhanced turquoise is dyed to improve its color and luster, but the effect is temporary, so this kind of turquoise is much cheaper. In this case, you can see the difference in color just by scratching the surface.

About our sources | Got something to add?

▼ Expand to read the full article ▼

Best of the Web (“Hall of Fame”)

All About Jewels Dictionary

All About Jewels Dictionary

This incredible reference dictionary on jewelry, from Enchantedlearning.com, is both beautiful and comprehensive. S… [read review or visit site]

Morning Glory Antiques and Jewelry

Morning Glory Antiques and Jewelry

Jewelry collectors, feast your eyes on this internet gem! It's a goldmine of jewelry information featuring all styl… [read review or visit site]

Cathy Gordon's Jewelry Gallery

Cathy Gordon's Jewelry Gallery

With its vast galleries featuring clear images of jewelry and style, this site really covers it all! Divided up by … [read review or visit site]

Jewel History

Jewel History

Since March of 2007, readers of Lori Ettlinger Gross’s JewelHistory blog have been treated to her weekly (sometim… [read review or visit site]

Clubs & Associations

Other Great Reference Sites

Most watched eBay auctions    

18ct Gold Victorian White Coral,turquoise,negligee Pendant Necklace, Fitted CaseVtg Old Pawn Navajo Sterling Silver Turquoise Red Coral 5" 167g Cuff BraceletAntique Victorian Sterling Silver Vermeil Persian Turquoise Filigree NecklaceStunning Pair Of Large And Heavy Victorian Turquoise Gold Drop EarringsOld Sterling Natural Turquoise Cab Links Bracelet Mexican Tribal Southwest 52 Gm2 Large Old Pawn Zuni Sterling Silver Cluster Turquoise Snake Eye Coral Ring LotOld Pawn Navajo Silver Matrix Turquoise Bench Bead Collar Necklace Bracelet LotA Pretty Pair Of Vintage 9ct Gold Turquoise And Diamond EarringsFine Pair Of Victorian Style Turquoise & Seed Pearl Gold Drop EarringsEarly C19th Century 15ct Gold Georgian / Victorian Turquoise & Seed Pearl Ring.Old Vintage Fred Harvey Era Sterling Fob Pendant Crossed Arrows TurquoiseHeavy Jumbo Vintage Elegant 18k Gold Turquoise Sputnik Charm/pendantAntique Vintage 9ct Gold Turquoise Earrings Screw Type Vintage Navajo Old Pawn Green Turquoise Sterling Silver Men's Ring Sz 11Vintage Old Pawn Navajo Rare Large Kachina Turquoise Sterling Bolo Tie SignedLarge Signed Old Pawn Vintage Navajo Turquoise & Sterling PendantVtg Pawn Old Harvey Era Turquoise Sterling Silver Whirling Log Charm PendantOld Pawn Vintage Navajo Spiderweb Turquoise Men's Sterling Ring Sz 12Old Pawn Vintage Navajo Turquoise Sterling Link Toggle Men's Or Women's BraceletFine Large And Heavy Turquoise, Ruby And Pearl 14ct Gold 'bird' BroochFine Victorian Seed Pearl,turquoise & Diamond 18k Gold RingVintage Dead Pawn Navajo Signed Green Bisbee Turquoise Sterling Men's Ring Old Fred Harvey Era Silver Turquoise Bracelet With ThunderbirdsVtg Old Pawn A. Blackgoat Navajo Sterling Silver Pill Ring Jewelry Box Turquoise34g Incredible Old Old Old Vintage Pawn Navajo Turquoise Row Cuff BraceletAntique Austrian Turquoise Enameled 750 Silver Locket W/star Ruby,seed PearlsVtg Art Deco Early Sterling Silver Mexican Turquoise 1.25" Wide Mexico BraceletVintage Solid 18ct Gold 25.2g Turquoise Stone Bracelet Victorian 15ct Gold And Turquoise Ring. Hallmarked Birmingham1865. For Repair3 Old Early Primitive Navajo Stamped Silver Turquoise Bracelet Tourist Era LotOld Pawn Navajo Handmade Sterling Silver Green & Blue Turquoise Cuff Bracelet JLrg Old Pawn Navajo Handmade Sterling Carved Royston Turquoise Cuff Bracelet JVintage Navajo Sterling Silver Old Pawn Large Spiderweb Royston Turquoise RingVintage Antique Turquoise Bracelet Mexico Mexican Sterling SilverAnnina Vogel Style 9ct Gold Turquoise Seedpearl Return Home Swallow NecklaceGorgeous Handmade Navajo Sterling Silver & Turquoise Necklace Signed Mc | RsAntique Victorian 9ct Gold Turquoise & Seed Pearl Pendant - 2.7g - Superb!Vintage Sterling Silver Turquoise Navajo Buckle & Western Tooled Leather Belt 32Antique Vintage Huge Chinese Natural Blue Turquoise & Natural Coral Necklace N.rVintage Old Pawn Navajo Santo Domingo Green Royston Turquoise Choker NecklaceFine Pair Of Gold Sapphire,coral,turquoise & Seed Pearl Drop EarringsVintage Navajo Rose A. Chee Sterling Green Carico Lake Turquoise Pendant 72 GramStriking Vintage Navajo Corn Plant Green Turquoise Silver BraceletMuseum Vintage Navajo ""squared Green Turquoise"" Silver BraceletStunning! Vintage Navajo Sterling Silver & Turquoise Pendant Necklace OldVery Large Vintage Navajo Easter Blue Turquoise BraceletOld Vintage Fred Harvey Era Thunderbird Pendant With TurquoiseVtg Old Pawn Southwest Sterling Silver Turquoise Navajo Tomahawk Bolo Tie Vintage, Retro, 14k Gold, 4.0 Ct. Persian Turquoise & .48 Cttw Oec Diamond RingVintage Navajo Sandcast Silver And Turquoise Cross NecklaceVtg.14 Karat Yellow Gold 1940's Art Deco Brooch, Sardinian Red Coral & TurquoiseHuge Vintage Handmade Navajo Sterling Silver Turquoise Ring Signed "tt" Sz 8 | JVtg Pawn Navajo 375g Bear Paw Claw Turquoise Sterling Silver Concho Buckle BeltJuan Alberta Handmade Navajo Sterling Silver Gem Turquoise Bead Necklace 16" JHandmade Navajo 925 Sterling Silver Dry Creek Turquoise Necklace By "jlg" | J AiOutstanding Victorian Turquoise & Seed Pearl 14kt RingExquisite Antique Victorian 15ct Gold Old Cut Diamond Turquoise Enamel BroochVintage Navajo Sterling & Turquoise Cluster Cuff Bracelet Larry Moses Begay LmbLarge 18 Gram Vintage Navajo Old Pawn Sterling Silver & Dry Creek Turquoise RingVtg Navajo Arts & Crafts Guild Sterling Silver Drycreek Turquoise Earrings | G