Sapphires are cut from an extremely hard mineral called corundum, which is also the source of an even rarer gem, the ruby. Used in everything from necklaces to bracelets to rings, sapphires get their characteristic blue hue from iron and titanium in the mineral. A variant of the sapphire, the padparadscha, ranges in color from pink to orange and occurs only in Sri Lanka. Other sapphires are mined in North America, Russia, Africa, and Australia, but the most prized examples are found in Myanmar, India, and Thailand.

During the late-Georgian period, jewelers used sapphires to try out new gem cuts, the most popular being the rose cut and table cut. Georgian sapphires typically had enclosed backs and were set over foil. In the Victorian Era, sapphires were combined with other gemstones in so-called acrostic rings so that the first letter in the name of each stone spelled out the word "dearest," (i.e., diamond, emerald, amethyst, ruby, emerald, sapphire, and topaz).

By the 20th century, some of the world’s greatest examples of fine jewelry were anchored and accented by sapphires. Cosmetics queen Helena Rubinstein wore a starfish-shaped, Ecalle-designed ornament on the back of her hand, whose center was dominated by a large sapphire cabochon. Opera singer Ganna Walska wore enormous sapphires on her fingers.

Daisy Fellowes, whose grandfather was Isaac Singer (as in the sewing machine) favored sapphire brooches from Cartier. The Duchess of Windsor also shopped at Cartier for sapphires; one of her many necklaces featured no less than nine flower-like clusters of sapphires, each liberally accented with diamonds and attached to a pair of sapphire-bead chains.

The most sought-after sapphires are usually the ones of deepest blue. Kashmir sapphires are the color of cornflowers, often shading to rich purples, while those from Mynamar have a more royal-blue tint. Stones from other regions that are not as naturally blue are often cut to ensure that the meager amount of blue in the gem radiates throughout the final cut-and-polished piece (the secret is to leave the blue at the gem’s base rather than its surface).

Almost all shades of blue are generally acceptable for sapphires, even ones with gray in them, which makes the blue “steely.” Green, however, is not desirable. Unfortunately, the impurities that make most sapphires blue can also produce shades of green when the stone is held at certain angles. That’s just one reason why the skill of the cutter is so important.

Green can also occur when sapphires are heat-treated to make them more blue. In fact, heat is one of numerous treatments used to enrich the color of sapphires. For example, distr...

Last but not least is the star sapphire, whose asterism, as it is called, is the result of light playing upon the silk-like fibers within a stone. Most heat treatments diminish a stone’s asterism (the trade off for the jeweler, though, is a richer color). Some star sapphires, particularly those from Thailand and Sri Lanka, have another stone’s base glued to theirs. While this makes the gem appear larger and more imposing than it really is, over time the glue can yellow the stone.

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Recent News: Sapphire Jewelry

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Hillwood Estate exhibit showcases Marjorie Merriweather Post's jewelry by Cartier
Washington Post, July 25th

The best-known collections of socialite, philanthropist and Post cereal heir Marjorie Merriweather Post were in Russian imperial art and 18th-century French decorative art. But she was also a connoisseur of all things Cartier. Decades of patronage...Read more

The Wisdom of the Moving Man
New York Times, July 24th

I panicked when he left. I panicked again a few months later when, on our 10th anniversary, my boyfriend proposed with an imitation sapphire ring. He'd bought it at a jewelry store with a neon sign that flashed “We Buy Old Gold.” The ring was too small...Read more

#RocksMyWorld: Monique Lhuillier Adds Something Blue and More to Her ...
InStyle, July 24th

I often draw inspiration from my dresses when I design my jewelry collection. In this past bridal collection I experimented with color, specifically using a beautiful hydrangea blue. Then I introduced a blue sapphire into this new jewelry collection...Read more

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The Morning Journal, July 24th

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Moderate to Top-Tier Sales at Doyle New York, Skinner, and Bonhams
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Squamish Chief, July 23rd

Squamish is surrounded by the many shades of a cerulean ocean along with cobalt, glacier-fed rivers and sapphire lakes. To celebrate our ... The sun was reflecting on the surface of the water like jewelry… nothing more peaceful and beautiful...Read more

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Jacob's Diamond & Estate Jewelry, a vintage and estate jewelry store based in Los Angeles, CA that features unique second hand items such as estate diamond rings, vintage engagement rings, and Art Deco necklaces, recently announced that they have ...Read more

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“We are excited to be giving away a gorgeous sapphire and diamond ring,” said Darrell Ross, CEO and president of Ross-Simons. “Since the sapphire is symbolic of loyalty, this sweepstakes is the perfect way for us to thank our loyal customers.” Ross...Read more