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Found this in my Dads stuff

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CollectorsWe…'s loves15 of 72French Porcelian bowl indentificationConical Shooting Stars Decanter
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    Posted 4 years ago

    Hulton
    (1 item)

    Can"t find the key
    Looks to be in good shape I really want to know how to clean it correctly and find a key.

    Mystery Solved

    Comments

    1. BinaryReflex BinaryReflex, 4 years ago
      Beautiful piece. I think finding a key for an old mantel clock is next to impossible, unless you know the maker of it, or you know who sold it to you, if there's any other way, then I dont know about it. Here's two links about cleaning and maintenance: http://www.ehow.com/how_6293307_clean-repair-antique-mantle-clocks.html
      http://www.valuableclocks.com/antique-clocks-care.htm
    2. Trey Trey, 4 years ago
      Welcome to CW:)
    3. pw-collector pw-collector, 4 years ago
      Very similar to some of the Ingraham Mantel clocks. I haven't found the exact one yet, but still looking. Nice clock.
      Dave
    4. Bruce99 Bruce99, 4 years ago
      I think that you have a version of a Seth Thomas Adamantine Mantel Clock model called the "Black Hussar" from circa 1904. More photos would be helpful. You can post up to four photos per listing. Try to add a close-up of the dial, any names or trademarks and a photo of the clock's "works" or movement.

      Adamantine is an early celluloid veneer that Seth Thomas finished many of their clocks with. It is basically a plastic finish they applied over a pine case. The plastic was colored to resemble fine hard woods such as Red Mahogany or Rosewood. It could also be made to resemble Onyx, Slate and Marble. It came in White and Black colors. Here's a link with more information: http://clockhistory.com/sethThomas/products/adamantine/

      Here's one example that I found online of a "Black Hussar" which is finished in what appears to be Mahogany Adamantine with simulated Onyx Columns:
      http://www.roschmitt.com/0511/images/4354_A.JPG. The Adamantine finish differs from your example but everything else appears to be a very close match. RO Schmitt is a long established, well respected Horological Auction House. They normally do an excellent job of identifying clocks which they put up for auction.

      If you do a search for Seth Thomas Black Hussar you'll find a number of photos which I believe have been misidentified. Many of them look like a model referred to by Tran Duy Ly as the Seth Thomas "Unlisted No. 1".

      If you want to know how to clean the Adamantine Case, (be very careful with it). Stay away from any kind of solvent or abrasive cleaner. Anything that will damage plastic will potentially ruin your clock's finish. "Goop", or "Go-Jo" waterless handcleaner *without* pumice are good products to use. Apply and rub with a clean cloth and keep applying to an area until the cloth is no longer picking up anymore dirt or film. It takes patience...remember the clock is over a century old.

      Here's a good reference:

      JOSEPH SINGER's RECOMMENDATIONS, AUGMENTED
      1. First and foremost, be sure that you begin with a
      case which has a good, if not perfect, Adamantine
      surface. It is difficult if not impossible to deal
      with faults and blemishes in the Adamantine. Minor
      cracks can be handled as described below.
      2. Remove the works and all metal legs and ornaments.
      a. Restore the works.
      b. Clean all metal parts with soap and water.
      3. Disassemble as much of the case you can.
      4. Thoroughly clean the surface areas of the case with
      a waterless cleaner, such as "Go-Jo" hand cleaner,
      which is excellent for this purpose, and is available
      from the local automotive parts supply store. Use a clean absorbent cloth to remove any residue from whatever waterless cleaner you use.
      5. Polish all the remaining case parts including the
      Adamantine-covered surfaces with a carnauba wax.
      TREEWAX is one available brand. This or some other
      brand can be found at your local automotive parts
      store, just be sure that the product you get is
      labeled as "pure carnauba wax." Carnauba wax will
      give by far the best finish and will help in
      covering minor cracks and imperfections, often
      making them seem to disappear. It is extremely
      hard, the hardest wax available, and will require
      considerable effort to apply and polish to a high
      gloss, but once applied the finish will be very
      resilient and quite attractive. I recommend use
      of a buffing wheel for the final polishing step to
      get a bright and beautiful finish. (Other
      cleaners/polishes such as #7 rubbing compound,
      "Simichrome" polish, or "Meguir's" car cleaner/wax
      will work, however carnauba wax will provide overall
      the best results.)

      If you don't want to disassemble the case, use Q-Tips to clean into corners and seams as much as possible. You won't get all of the dust and dirt this way but you'll get most of the visible stuff.

      Try to keep the clock out of strong light, especially Sun Light. It will cause oxidation and fading of the Adamantine.

      You asked about a winding key. Without photos of the movement it's hard to tell but these clocks normally used the Seth Thomas No. 89 8-day Time and Strike Movement. IF that is what you have, you can go on eBay and search for "Seth Thomas Trademark clock winding key double end #6/0000 for #89 movement".
      To double-check before you order go to this website: http://www.clockworks.com/clock-parts/clock-keys.html

      The large end of the winding key is used to wind the clocks' mainsprings. The small end is used to help "regulate" the clock's timekeeping and fits through the dial in the small hole located right above the "6" on this model. Be careful to never force the regulator in either direction. You can generate a lot of force with a winding key and one can easily strip or otherwise damage the regulating mechanism with it. Here's an excellent webpage with good instructions for not only regulating your clock, but for most all of the various aspects of setting it up and keeping it running properly: http://www.theclockdr.com/TheClockDr/Clock_Instructions.html

      Don't overlook the fact that if you decide to wind the clock and keep it running that it is a mechanical machine. It has many small moving and delicate parts. Like all machines it requires periodic proper lubrication and maintenance. That's another topic.

      I hope this helps solve your mystery. If so, please indicate "Mystery Solved" in your listing.

      If you have more questions, ask away. There are many very knowledgeable collectors here.

      Good luck with it, welcome to Collectors Weekly, and thanks for sharing your heirloom with the online community.
    5. Hulton, 4 years ago
      Thanks everyone for the information.
      It is a Seth Thomas
    6. Bruce99 Bruce99, 4 years ago
      Thank you for taking the time to post the extra photos. The movement in your clock is the Seth Thomas No. 44. It is one of their so-called "Hip Movements" because of the characteristic shape of the plates. It may have "3 5/8" stamped on the plate. That refers to the pendulum length or drop. The 44's had several different gear ratios which required different pendulum lengths. The regulation arbor is located just above the "12". I'm fairly certain that the previously mentioned double-ended key size for the No. 89 movement (6/0000) *should* will work with your movement but please take measurements if you can, and reference the URL provided earlier just to be sure. The 44's were eventually replaced by the 89's. This would suggest that your clock may be an earlier version of the model line. Look for a date of manufacture stamp on the bottom. They tend to fade out in time but it may still be present. It is written in reverse so 1899 would appear as 9981. There would also be a letter corresponding to the month of manufacture A through L representing January through December. I really do enjoy these types of clocks. Thanks for sharing your Dad's. It looks like he took very good care of it. :) Regards.

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