Posted 3 years ago
A variety of German matte enamel bracelets from the 1950s and 1960s.
- Perli taupe matte enamel bracelet with pastel blue, white and cream geometric shapes
- Perli red, orange, purple matte enamel bracelet with abstract fruits and vegetables
- Wilhelm Leyser matte enamel bracelet dark blue and teal iridescent
- Perli red and white dots matte enamel bracelet
- Scholz & Lammel "s" by Sigrid Gottstein black, white dots matte enamel bracelet
- Two Wilhelm Leyer checked matte enamel bracelets
- Andresen & Scheinpflug sterling and orange bubbles enamel bracelet (not matte!)
- German matte enamel bracelet with copper-colored leaves
- Wilhelm Leyser cloisonne matte enamel bracelet in copper tones
- German ivory-colored matte enamel bracelet with fish, flowers, abstract shapes
- Perli matte enamel bracelet with fish
Ginger Moro, author of the classic book "European Designer Jewelry" wrote about German (and French) enamel here:
"The Germans preferred the cloisonné matte enamel technique where the cloisons wires are soldered on the copper or silver base which separates the colors. The resulting cells are filled with enamel and buffed flat. Originating in Egypt in 1800 BC, the technique was introduced to Germany in the 10th century AD by a Byzantine princess. Hydrofluoric acid applied to the surface produced the matte effect in the 20th century. Artists who designed for Theodor Fahrner in Pforzheim, Germany, excelled in Art Déco/Moderne silver or copper-based matte enamel decorated with hardstones.
During WW II, the jewelry-making towns, forced to convert to manufacturing munitions, were razed to the ground by Allied planes. Rising from the post-war ruins, several firms like Perli, Scholtz & Lammel, G Bunge, and Wilhelm Leyser continued the tradition from geometric Machine Age to biomorphic Fifties forms. A coat of counter-enamel applied to the reverse of the piece was often the same color for each artist, which aids in identification, since many pieces were unsigned.
Perli Werkstätte, founded by Martha May in Schwäbish-Gemund in 1922, switched from manufacturing faux pearl jewelry to cloisonné enamel in 1935.... Matte enamelled silver or copper jewelry for men and women were signed "Perli", sometimes "handarbeit" (hand-crafted.) The counter-enamel could be glossy black or speckled grey.
The Scholtz & Lammel firm was founded in Idar-Oberstein, a town primarily known for gem-cutting. Designer Sigrid Gottstein created geometric designs for pendants, rings with adjustable shanks, link bracelets, and cufflinks. Until recently, the "S" in a circle maker's mark was assumed to belong to Karl Schibenski. We now know that he was a goldsmith who worked in Idar, but never designed matte enamel. Scholtz & Lammel paper tags proclaimed (in German,) "fire enamel, veritable hand-crafted." Sometimes, but not always, the "S" in circle mark was found on the clear enamel base. Bracelets were either rigid bangles or hinged segments.
William Leyser enamels made in Idar-Oberstein, were stamped "WL" on the clasp. Leyser decorated his bracelets with stylized fish or rhomboid shapes which usually incorporated glossy royal blue counter enamel. A.G. Bunge's atelier was in Munich. Matte enamel street scenes and geometric link bracelets often bore notched clasps."