A woman’s coat or jacket is rarely worn just to ward off the elements and keep warm, although these garments certainly do both of those things. More than a means of covering up, they are as important to an outfit’s overall fashion statement as the right dress, pair of shoes, or hat. A look back at the vintage coats and jackets of the 20th century reveals how these articles of clothing evolved to signal the styles of the women who wore them.

At the beginning of the 1900s, some women’s coats extended all the way to the calf at the back but had open fronts to show off a matching vest as well as a coordinated dress, which was so long it dragged on the ground. Other coats were almost poncho-like, with enormous collars, equally large patch pockets, and puffy balloon sleeves. Today, these coats seem like period pieces compared to other knee-length, belted coats with fur collars, cuffs, and hems, which hinted at more modern looks.

Jackets were often worn as the upper part of a suit. Shorter than coats, and adhering to the Edwardian habit of tight waists, such jackets were usually paired with a matching skirt that was cut loose so women could participate in everything from sports to the Tango.

By the 1920s, outer garments ranged from three-quarter-length Russian-style coats, with buttons running in a vertical row below the left shoulder and high Cossack collars, to colorful tailored jackets that stopped at the knees. Fur at the collar and hem remained popular, but so were Art Nouveau and Art Deco prints on silk. Meanwhile, velour and other luscious fabrics were made even richer with embroidery and costume-jewelry clasps.

Coco Chanel was just one of many designers who came into their own in this decade—other big names included Jean Patou, Jeanne Lanvin, and Paul Poiret. These designers, and many more, made clothing—including coats and jackets—that was almost androgynous, borrowing heavily from the styles of 1920s menswear.

This trend toward masculinity continued until World War II. Many jackets got shorter, resembling tuxedos, while others drew from gaucho and toreador styles. Shoulder pads took off thanks to their dramatic use in the movies. Meanwhile, in Paris, Elsa Schiaparelli and others produced coats and jackets that were almost architectural in their structure and cut.

During the war, shortages of materials caused designers to economize—in England, the style was formally known as Utility. Double-breasted jackets used more fabric than single-bre...

Numerous looks for coats were born during the war years. Though many were designed for male soldiers and seamen, women’s coat-and-jacket designers appropriated these styles freely. There was the peacoat, a stiff, woolen garment that was particularly good at beating back chilly ocean winds.

Women also claimed World War I-era trench coat styles during the 1940s and ’50s. But some styles took longer to catch on—the bomber jacket, which evolved into the motorcycle jacket, wouldn’t gain popularity among women until the 1960s and ’70s.

The big news of the 1940s for fashion, though, was Dior’s New Look, launched in 1947. Like a lot of designers, Dior had wearied of all that wartime austerity. He wanted something fresh and elegant, and his aesthetic translated well to coats and jackets. The military influence could still be seen, but flaring hems and tight waists that flattered and hugged the figure feminized his New Look.

Materials like linen suited the change that was in the air, but so did big prints and loud colors. In the 1950s, a billowy purple coat would not have been out of the ordinary, but a tight-fitting Mandarin-style jacket in vibrant blue might also be embraced.

Suits in velveteen, twill, and man made materials such as Dacron were smart and conservative, a counterpoint to coats and jackets lined or trimmed with everything from real mink to faux leopard. Such was the 1950s, a decade when opposites routinely attracted.

By the 1960s, all bets were off. Yves Saint Laurent designed pink tweed suits with short double-breasted jackets—Sears sold Seersucker suits with jackets of the same basic cut. Also in the ’60s were denim jackets by Levi’s and Wrangler, designed ostensibly for blue-collar males. Much to the chagrin of their owners, fashion-forward wives and girlfriends frequently borrowed these jackets from their partners, sometimes permanently.

One of the most influential designers of the decade was André Courrèges, who not only invented the classic 1960s go-go-boot but also brought the fitted leather bomber jackets of World War II into the swinging sixties. The Courrèges jacket was made of patent leather, usually in a pastel such as pink, had plastic snaps, and sported a collar that looked even better turned up than folded over.

Chanel and Dior produced similar versions of the waist-length jacket—First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy made Chanel’s internationally famous. Cardin excelled at short jackets, too, but also floor-length maxi coats, which were trimmed in geometric designs from the waist to the collar and at the cuffs and hem—for shock value, these long coats were often paired with a mini-skirt.

Another women’s jacket icon of the 1960s was the double-breasted blazer. And for coats, especially for women in Manchester, England, bone-clasp duffels were the outwear of choice, probably because they made those long waits in line to get into one of the city’s legendary Northern Soul dance clubs just a little bit warmer.

About our sources | Got something to add?

▼ Expand to read the full article ▼

Best of the Web (“Hall of Fame”)



The history of 20th-century women’s fashion largely played out in the pages of magazines such as “Harper’s Ba… [read review or visit site]

Fashion Columbia Study Collection

Fashion Columbia Study Collection

The Fashion Columbia Study Collection (FCSC) is the digital home of the Columbia College Chicago’s fashion archiv… [read review or visit site]

1960s Fashion and Textiles

1960s Fashion and Textiles

Put on your go-go boots and check out this wavy, groovy tribute to 1960s fashion and textiles, courtesy of the Vict… [read review or visit site]

Vintage Fashion Guild

Vintage Fashion Guild

The VFG is a non-profit international educational organization dedicated to the promotion and preservation of vinta… [read review or visit site]



Bursting at the seams with content, this site contains hundreds of pages of fashion and costume history, including … [read review or visit site]

Clubs & Associations

Most watched eBay auctions    

Rare Late 1940s Coat Dress With Velvet Collars And Full Skirts - Uk 10 / 12Womens Burberry Double Breasted Short Trench Coat Mac Beige Size 10/12Womens Burberry Single Breasted Short Trench Coat Mac Red Size 6/8 S/xsWomens Burberry Double Breasted Short Trench Coat Mac Beige 8/10Vtg White Ivory Cream Blonde Real Fur Mink Stole Bolero Jacket Coat Nerz PelzBeautiful Womens Burberry Double Breasted Short Trench Coat Mac Beige 10/12Vintage Tony Alamo Barbie Beach Blast Hand Painted Denim Jacket Rare Nikki MinajRain Jaket Raincoat Coat Regenmantel Rubber Gummi Latex Imperméable Catcuit1910's 20's Suit Coat Smoking Jacket Wool Union Clothing Co Frog ClosureOoak Vtg 70s Marsala Hand Loomed Fiber Art Poet Slv Ultra Drape Cocoon Jacket OsVint "bill Blass Signature" Gray Shearling (?) Coat~oversized Shawl Collar~m~excVintage Dress W Matching Jacket Brown Floral Print 1950'sVtg Raven Avant Garde Maribou Ostrich Feather Minimalist Crop Bolero Cape JacketFabulous Quality 38" Long Silver Fox Trim Soft Black Leather Belted Balloon CoatVintage Alaskan Custom Built Fur Coat ~ Possibly Mink? ~ Ladies - Dark BrownVintage Laura Ashley 1980's Summer Dress & Jacket Size 16Fred Perry Women's Royal Blue Twin Taped Track Jacket - Uk 12/ Eur 40/ Us 8 Stunning Tanuki Vibrant Colored Raccon Full Length Coat Size Med/largeVtg Silver Solid Sequin Bomber Jacket~glam Rock 80's~zippers~moto~disco~sparklyVintage Chiffon & Lace Bed-jacket Wrap, Med-lg-bust 50Vintage 1960s 60s Suit Dress Jacket Lot Pendleton Wool Polyester Mod Sequin Vtg 50s Rayon Crepe Hale Hawaii Sleeveless Bolero Jacket Tropical Palm Trees Vintage White Leather Coat Jacket Cowgirl FringeLong Evening Dress 1940s With JacketVintage Americana Ralph Lauren Country Buckaroo Jacket, 1984Vintage Long Sheer Hooded Embroidered Beaded Dress Coat Wedding FaerieVintage 60's Mod Houndstooth Textured Wool Cape Jacket Sz.s-m Excellent Cond!!Vtg 70s Graphic Wide Stripes Woven Gauze Minimalist Drape Kimono Cape Jacket OsVintage Women's Winter Coat Russian Style Wool With Faux Fur Trim And BraidingOriginal Vintage 60's Suede Leather With Tag Waistcoat Jacket Sz 12 Hippy Boho Vintage Emilio Pucci Psychedelic Neon Mod Silk Dress Open Jacket Coat By VividVintage Souvenir 1940s-50s Embroidered Mexican Red Wool Jacket Large AppliquesVtg 50s New Look Black Silk Grosgrain Skirt Jacket Suit Wide Portrait Collar BowVintage Souvenir 1940s-50s Embroidered Mexican Kelly Green Wool Jacket By MikesVintage Black Skirt And Jacket Suit From 1940Vintage Chinese Kimono Authentic Dragon Embroidered Jacket Red Top One SizeVintage Souvenir Tourist Embroidered Cream Wool Applique Mexican Jacket 1940Victorian Jade Green Taffeta Corseted Jacket Vintage For Study/partsMinimalist Cream Gauze J Jill Drape Cloak Cocoon Wrap Cape Resort Jacket Coat OsLot Of 3 True Vintage 1950 Wiggle Pinup Dresses & 1 Matching Jacket Vtg 70's Hippie Boho Reversible Tapestry Fringe Tassels Festival Poncho Coat OsEmanuel Ungaro Parallele Paris Dress & Jacket Size 12 Evening WearWomens Schott Perfecto Black Leather JacketVintage 1920's Crepe Back Satin Black JacketEdwardian Art Deco 1920s Vintage Navy Blue Black Blazer Jacket Original Wool Xs90's Vintage Moschino Jeans Denim Polka Dot Jacket 1990s Vtg Size 8 Womens B590s Adrienne Vittadini Multicolor Patchwork Of Sequins & Beads On Wool JacketVintage 1940's Black/white Grosgrain Textured Corded Twill Cropped Jacket Sz SVintage 100% Cashmere Black 1950s/1960s Coat~tapered Waist,beltedVintage Marilyn Anselm For Hobbs Abstract Print Long Tunic/jacket - Uk 14/xlVintage 60's Chocolate Brown Bombshell Wiggle Pencil Dress Bolero Jacket BeltedVintage Pandora Chiffon & Ruffles Bed-jacket Wrap, Lg-bust 46Vintage "bill Blass" Wool Tweed Trench Coat~raccoon Collar~m~union Label~exc!Vintage Chiffon & Lace Bed-jacket Wrap, Med-bust 44Vintage 1900s Linen Lace Edwardian Duster CoatVintage 1940's Fitted Jacket And Pencil Skirt Set/small70s Warm Beige Sheer Floral Lace Angel Sleeve Hippie Boho Duster Coat30s Elegant Black Wool Rhinestone Embellishment Classic Swing CoatVintage 90s Colorful Velvet Swing Jacket With Dancing Ladys PrintVintage Joseph Magnin Evening Coat