In the long, tangled web of fashion history, there are few garments that have had the influence and mass appeal of T-shirts (also called T shirts, t shirts, or tees for short). There is something about the basic nature of collarless cotton (or polyester—yuck!) that has allowed people for the past half century to champion causes, support teams, commemorate concerts, and show off what they believe in, all without saying a word.

Today, T-shirts surround us. They are given away for free at sporting events, used by colleges to promote themselves, and worn by packs of schoolchildren so their teachers can identify them.

T-shirts were not always a part of the mainstream, however. In fact, from their invention in the early 20th century as an undergarment for men in the military until the 1950s, wearing a T-shirt in public would have gotten you some sour looks.

It was not until 1954 when Marlon Brando wore a T-shirt on screen in “The Wild One,” and a year later when James Dean sported one in “Rebel Without a Cause,” that the notion of wearing T-shirts as outerwear gained acceptance. Maybe it was Brando and Dean’s sex appeal, or perhaps it was a sign of changing times, but the legendary photographs of both men in their tightly cropped T-shirts spurred a snowballing fad that is still going strong today.

In the decades that followed, T-shirts picked up steam from the rebellion and flower power of the 1960s and the consumerism of the 1970s. T-shirts became microphones for political activists, advertisements for companies and movies, and souvenirs for concert-goers.

Many T-shirt collectors today try to accumulate old rock concert T’s. While some of the most famous and collected rock T-shirts come from world-famous groups like The Rolling Stones and Led Zeppelin, concert T-shirts actually originated earlier: with The King himself.

One of Elvis’ fan clubs printed the first rock concert T-shirt in the late 1950s. Despite Presley’s popularity, rock concert or music personality T-shirts did not become fashionable until the late 1960s, when impresario Bill Graham promoted West Coast bands like the Grateful Dead and Jefferson Airplane. Some of the earliest and most collectible vintage T-shirts advertise those groups and others associated with the San Francisco music scene. Vintage tie-dyed shirts from this era are especially prized...

Earlier rock T-shirts tended to be basic and informational. Lynyrd Skynyrd broke that mold with its famous shirt based on the Jack Daniels whiskey logo. Black Sabbath shattered conventions even further with its baroque, hyper-busy T-shirts.

The list of collectible rock groups is lengthy, but a few with the most memorable T-shirts include The Clash, The Sex Pistols, and Pink Floyd. Rock T-shirts are not only desired by T-shirt collectors, but also by collectors of music or specific band memorabilia.

At the same time that rock tees were gaining popularity, political T-shirts were entering mainstream culture. Today we have all become accustomed to seeing the faces of politicians and slogans for various causes on T-shirts, but this trend only began in the 1960s.

Most famous are Che Guevara T-shirts, which were first worn by Fidel Castro supporters in 1967 but have since become symbols for idealism and martyrdom. Guevara T-shirts are easy to come by, but few collectors feel complete without one. Modern day T-shirts of defiance are comparatively tamer and include those with the “Parental Control” label on them, or punk and skate T’s made by companies like Bones, Vision Street Wear, Gator, and Thrasher.

As with the Che T-shirts, oftentimes these simple articles of clothing capture the cultural sentiment of a particular time and place, so many collectors use T-shirts to literally collect history. For this reason, the early screen-prints are popular collectibles. At the time they were made, these shirts were state of the art—they could be produced in minutes while the customer waited. Some of the most popular early screen-prints included novelty T-shirts with instructions for solving Rubik’s Cubes, but many more featured unique, personalized messages.

Concert promoters and bands used T-shirts early on to create brand awareness, but Hollywood turned the practice into an art. Movies like “Batman,” released in 1989, made T-shirts that not only promoted the film, but also appealed to T-shirt collectors as well as collectors of film memorabilia and comic-books.

Of course T-shirts are also associated with sports teams. Sports-memorabilia collectors will often purchase shirts to wear to games, to hang in their homes, or to commemorate an especially sweet championship. For example, many New York Yankees fans had to have a shirt trumpeting the team’s status as World Series Champions in 2009, just as Boston Red Sox fans did in 2004.

While T-shirts are usually associated with men’s clothing, they are also designed for women. Women’s tees are often given flattering so-called “baby doll” cuts, and many women wear oversize T-shirts in lieu of pajamas as bedtime attire. Mainstream fashion companies such as Gap and Abercrombie have tried to capitalize on the popularity of T-shirts by selling shirts to men and women alike with their brands and logos on them, while some websites such as Threadless produce T-shirts in limited editions that routinely sell out.

What just about all T-shirts have in common, though, is their fragile nature. Even straightforward designs like the one for “Batman,” which features a bright yellow logo on a black shirt, are susceptible to damage, which can devalue them. The inked rubber surface on shirts is easily damaged—it can stick to adjoining surfaces and often breaks down faster than the shirt it adheres to. Many collectors will sprinkle their most prized shirts with talcum powder to avoid the sticking issues.

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Recent News: T-Shirts

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Aaron Says 'Relax': New T-Shirts Going on Sale
WBAY, December 18th

Promotional Designs of Green Bay started getting the t-shirts ready today. The shirt shows Aaron Rodgers with a smile on his face and the word “Relax” in capital letters. Rodgers famously told fans to “relax” after the team started the season 1-2. Of...Read more

'Living doll' tomboy swaps skinny jeans and t-shirts for crazy petticoats and ..., December 18th

Tomboy Sofia Pettersen-James used to be one of the guys - until she ditched her skinny jeans and t-shirts to dress like a real-life doll. The 19-year-old, from Harrow, West London, now turns heads every day with her crazy petticoats, frilly bonnets...Read more

When It Comes to Sports Protests, Are T-Shirts Enough?
ColorLines magazine, December 18th

In the two weeks since a grand jury failed to indict Daniel Pantaleo, a white New York City cop who was videotaped using a fatal chokehold on an unarmed, black father, Eric Garner, elite athletes have worn pre-game T-shirts adorned with protest slogans...Read more

Unused T-shirts repurposed for Awardrobe 4-H project
Iowa Farmer Today, December 17th

Nearly 200 4-H'ers repurposed unused T-shirts to sew about 45 diapers. “We have a volunteer who is experienced at sewing help out,” says Cayla Taylor, campus 4-H youth program coordinator with ISU Extension. “The kids have various levels of experience ...Read more

Weaver Players Wear 'I Can't Breathe' Shirts
Hartford Courant, December 17th

Julian Manning gets his teammates fired up as the Weaver High basketball players wore "I Can't Breathe" T-shirts during warmups before their season opener Wednesday night at home against Bulkeley-Hartford. Julian Manning gets his teammates fired up ...Read more

'Breathe Easy' t-shirts go international
WSBT-TV, December 17th

The South Bend Uniform Company has sold more than 5,000 of its custom shirts that read "Breathe Easy, Don't Break the Law." The company has taken orders from as far away as Kuwait, Iraq and the Philippines. A Mishawaka police officer who owns the ...Read more

Indiana Cop Sells 'Breathe Easy Don't Break The Law' T-Shirts
Chicagoist, December 16th

An Indiana police officer, who also happens to own a uniform shop, has created a stir online for a T-shirt he designed that is a play on the “I can't breathe” slogan which has become synonymous nationwide with the death of Eric Garner at the hands of...Read more

Hoop Thoughts: John Thompson III explains 'I Can't Breathe' shirts, more, December 15th

Nearly 26 years later, Georgetown's basketball program again sparked a lot of conversations after the players donned “I Can't Breathe” T-shirts while warming up for their home game against Kansas on Wednesday. They made the gesture in response to the ...Read more