Nothing tops a beautiful outfit like a perfect hat. Whether it’s a lacy headdress decorated with velvet and tulle from the mid-Victorian era or a wide-brimmed, "flower power" sun hat of chenille daisies from the 1960s, hats reflect and define the fashions of their day.
During the 1860s and ’70s, the popular drawn bonnets of the mid-19th century became oval, framing the face more naturally than the round ones that had preceded them. These spoon bonnets were decorated with ribbons, lace, and flowers made of organdy and silk. Straw skimmers, also known as rounds, were worn outdoors—the best of these had patterns of silk braids sewn onto their tops.
By the end of the century, hats were moving in two directions. Some were demure, almost too small for the heads they were perched on. Others had high-domed crowns and were piled high with loops of ribbon and drapes of rich velvet. Wide Gainsborough hats, sometimes called cartwheels, were the exception to this general rule. These showy chapeaux were decorated with so many feathers that laws had to be passed to prevent entire species of birds from going extinct.
As the 20th century dawned, the Gibson Girl dominated fashion. The hallmark of the look was an hourglass figure (achieved by painfully tight corsets) and a big hat up top. Gainsboroughs were still worn, thanks to their popularization in the 1907 musical "The Merry Widow." Smaller, but no less ornate, pompadour hats were a mirror of the popular hairstyle of the same name. By the end of the century’s first decade, Edwardian fashions were in full swing, resulting in black velvet hats trimmed with ostrich feathers and velvet-and-silk flowers.
In the years before and after World War I, gigantic garden hats were still in vogue, but other trends were having an impact. Hats resembling berets and turbans began to appear, as did Musketeer hats. Tricorne hats, motoring hats, and straw boaters all had good runs toward the end of the decade. And as a precursor of the decade to come, close-fitting cloche hats were introduced.
Women in the 1920s went crazy for hats. In addition to the ubiquitous cloche, some with wide swooping brims, some without, women wore sculptural hats resembling airplane wings or actual crowns. Felt hats were embroidered with Art Deco flowers, and kits were sold for just $.89 so that women could make their own "crushers," as they were called. Actress Louise Brooks made it acceptable to wear pokes and helmet hats, and so-called Speakeasy hats were studded with sequins and costume jewels.
Things sobered up a bit in the 1930s, but only a bit. Black Sou’wester hats made of braided hemp continued the helmet look. In fact, straw hats went from garden to dressy, as straw cloches were woven with ecru to resemble smart tweeds. Knit turbans took off thanks to Greta Garbo, the pillbox was introduced, and women even took to wearing sequined or rhinestone-accented calot caps, which resembled large yarmulkes and were first worn by the ancient Greeks. Colorful berets and pirate caps, as well as felt or stitched geometric Dutch Boys, added to the decade’s sense of style...
During World War II, the fedora reigned, mostly due to Ingrid Bergman’s look in the 1942 film Casablanca. Crocheted snoods designed to keep hair from getting tangled in machine parts were a counterpoint to Rosie the Riveter’s famous red with white polka dot headscarf. After the war, berets of crushed velvet and printed barkcloth gained ground, as did bandeaux, which weren’t really hats but looked like them from the front when padded and worn like a tiara.
In the 1950s, hats almost resembled the costume jewelry of that period. The mushroom cloche and the melon hat were just two of the hats that took their shapes, and names, from food. Celebrities such as the Duchess of Windsor and Gloria Swanson wore casques, sailors, and large-brim hats interchangeably. Mamie Eisenhower wore an Air Wave hat to her husband’s first inauguration. Small but visually arresting cocktail hats were decorated with everything from dyed feathers to faceted beads, while bowlers, rollers, and Bretons were perfect for everyday wear.
Finally, in the 1960s, hats reflected the rising dominance of youth culture. The decade began with turban-like bubble toques made of feathers, prints, or mesh. Felt conehead caps and zippered Bobbie helmets exuded a Carnaby Street vibe, while fake fur was the fabric of choice for many pointed fedoras. Patent-leather jockey caps, from jet black to bright yellow, continued the Mod style, and even straw Gainsboroughs, which now seemed entirely in step with the trend toward natural looks, returned to the fashion stage for yet another bow.
Best of the Web (“Hall of Fame”)
American Hatpin Society
Fashion Columbia Study Collection
1960s Fashion and Textiles
Vintage Fashion Guild
Clubs & Associations
Most watched eBay auctions
Recent News: Womens Hats
Source: Google News
Minor-league baseball: Former College of Marin pitchers playing for Single-A teamsMarin Independent Journal, August 1st
Tyler Ihrig's hat collection within the Chicago Cubs organization has notably increased this summer. The 6-foot, 210-pound left-hander began the minor-league baseball season with the Triple-A Iowa Cubs. Five innings on the mound later, he was sent to...Read more
Scranton/Wilkes-Barre RailRiders clip ColumbusWilkes Barre Times-Leader, July 31st
Today at PNC Field: If you have a hat collection, don't miss tonight's giveaway as the first 2,500 fans in attendance will receive a RailRiders hat. Today's Probables: RailRiders TBA vs. Columbus RHP Toru Murata (9-4, 2.90). On Deck: The series with...Read more
3 NFL Teams You Won't See Returning to the Playoffs in 2015The Cheat Sheet, July 30th
young receivers and Larry Fitzgerald is a legend, Arizona's rushing attack is once again looking flat, unless Northern Iowa's David Johnson proves to be something special. My guess is it turns out as ugly as Arians's hat collection if Palmer goes...Read more
Korean War veterans' memories are in his hat collectionThe Daily Breeze, July 19th
I don't mean that in a self-appreciation way, I mean it literally. I don't wear them any more. And now I am left with close to 100 baseball caps (97 to be exact). I also have about dozen or so oddball hats picked up more or less as a necessity when...Read more
BySju x Oliver Proudlock Bowler Hat CollectionFashionBeans, July 14th
London-based milliner BySju has teamed up with Oliver Proudlock of Serge DeNimes on a limited edition bowler hat line. Also known for his role in reality series Made In Chelsea, designer Proudlock worked in collaboration with the British brand to...Read more
Vintage Hat Auction Supports the Beverly Area Arts AllianceDNAinfo, June 25th
lending the walls of her business to local artists looking for space to display their works. The Vintage Hat Auction and Cocktail party is free to attend. The evening will also include live music by Colin O'Malley. For more information, visit the...Read more
Indy gets never-before-seen Dr. Seuss hat collectionIndianapolis Star, May 5th
That tall, red-and-white striped top hat donned by the Cat is his most famous. But Theodor Seuss Geisel, better known by his pseudonym Dr. Seuss, created and amassed many hats, all with a rambunctiousness and palette fit for a man of unrivaled ...Read more
Dr. Seuss' touring hat collection is headed to Beverly HillsLos Angeles Times, March 23rd
It includes some of the crazy lids the good doctor (who died in 1991) had amassed as part of an extensive personal hat collection. (On a side note, this reporter saw the exhibition on in New York in February 2013, and, prompted to pay homage to Dr...Read more