Yves Saint Laurent was unique among his contemporaries for the way he incorporated everything from his love of the arts to his fondness for the styles of street culture into his fashions. Whether it was a wool jersey dress that became a canvas for colorful geometric abstractions or a line of clothes that took its cue from leather-jacket clad bohemians on Paris’s Left Bank, Saint Laurent was always looking outside the fashion world for his inspiration.
Saint Laurent began his career at a very early age, taking a job as a design assistant at Dior in 1954 when he was still a teenager. After Dior’s death in 1957, Saint Laurent, who was only 21, was named Dior’s chief designer. This was a huge responsibility for the young designer and French fashion in general—at the time, Dior accounted for almost 50 percent of France’s fashion exports. A lot would be riding on his first outing.
Happily, Saint Laurent’s spring 1958 collection for Dior was a huge success, the centerpiece of which was a line of trapeze dresses, which were narrow at the shoulders and wide at the hem. Saint Laurent had saved Dior and the French economy in one blow, but his fall 1958 collection was a critical and commercial disaster, as was the Left Bank-inspired Beat Look that followed—the world was not quite ready for all those black leather jackets and turtleneck sweaters.
In 1960 Saint Laurent was drafted into the French army, but he only served 20 days—he was hospitalized from the hazing inflicted on him by his fellow conscripts. It was in the hospital that he learned that he’d been fired from Dior. This sent Saint Laurent over the edge, which led to a stay in a mental hospital where he was regularly sedated with drugs and given electroshock therapy.
For many people that might have been the end of the story, but Saint Laurent climbed out of this hole and by 1962 had founded his own fashion house with lifelong business partner, Pierre Bergé.
One of the first influences Saint Laurent drew upon for his fashions was visual art. Early in the 1960s, André Courrèges had already created Piet Mondrian-like go-go boots, but Saint Laurent was the first to grandly appropriate the great mid-century artist’s work as bold super graphics on straight-cut dresses.
In 1966, the year after the Mondrian dresses, Saint Laurent introduced “le smoking,” which was a black tuxedo jacket that was cut to flatter the female form. Some of these jacket...
Until then, the only reliable, can’t-miss item in a woman’s wardrobe was her little black dress by Chanel or others. With the tuxedo jacket or suit, Saint Laurent gave women a brand new item for their fashion arsenals. Catherine Deneuve, Lisa Minnelli, and Lauren Bacall were instant fans—Bianca Jagger wore a white Saint Laurent suit at her wedding to Mick.
In 1966, Saint Laurent became the first major designer to get ready-to-wear right with Rive Gauche—boutiques of the same name soon followed, and the brand was eventually sold to Gucci in 1999. He was also the first major fashion designer to hire black fashion models to wear his clothes for his highly prestigious runway shows.
Embroidered African-inspired garments followed in 1967, as did more street-inspired fashions in 1968—most of these riffs on the leather-fringed attire of student protesters. Along the way, Saint Laurent added safari looks (his short-sleeve shirts had breast as well as hip pockets) and collections based on the Ballet Russes and European peasant costumes.
Best of the Web (“Hall of Fame”)
Fashion Columbia Study Collection
1960s Fashion and Textiles
Vintage Fashion Guild
The Antique Corset Gallery
Clubs & Associations
Most watched eBay auctions
Recent News: Yves Saint Laurent
Source: Google News
'Yves Saint Laurent': French designer's biopic attractive but lightweight (review)The Plain Dealer - cleveland.com (blog), August 27th
In fashion, simplicity is a complicated thing. An unadorned line, the clean drape of a piece of fabric, the slightest change in hue – of such small effects is art made. But "Yves Saint Laurent" is so minimal it barely registers. We get the outlines of...Read more
Will Jenny Hoang Be the Next Yves Saint Laurent?Racked NY, August 26th
Yesterday, we told you about the twelve Academy of Art University grads who will introduce their collections in the school's Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week show next month at Lincoln Park. Today, our attention is directed to yet another AAU alum who has ...Read more
Loulou de la Falaise: The Real DealNew York Times (blog), August 22nd
T TIME From her cottage in the Hudson Valley, Marian McEvoy, the author of this story, recalls how Yves Saint Laurent commanded the Paris fashion scene of the '70s and '80s. From 1975 to 1990, I lived and worked in Paris as a reporter for Women's Wear ...Read more
Yves Saint Laurent, reviewed: Biopic of the late French designer is a ...National Post, August 14th
Early in Yves Saint Laurent, the designer (Pierre Niney) slides a page of naughty doodles out of view, under some dress sketches. They're examples of La Vilaine Lulu, the bratty child cartoon alter-ego Saint Laurent began drawing while working at...Read more
Yves Saint Laurent biopic focuses on the salacious: Style CzarToronto Star, August 11th
was made under the full sanction of Saint Laurent's surviving partner, in both love and business, Pierre Bergé, and thus includes both the actual interiors of the original YSL headquarters on the rue Marceau and some 77 vintage Yves Saint Laurent...Read more
Movie review: Biography 'Yves Saint Laurent' a fashionable fizzleSalt Lake Tribune, August 7th
The biographical drama "Yves Saint Laurent" captures the lush look of the French designer, but director Jalil Lespert's depiction of his career falls into the clichés of meteoric success followed by self-destructive excess. We meet Yves Mathieu-Saint...Read more
Apple Hires Former Yves Saint Laurent Europe Chief Catherine MonierThe Mac Observer, August 6th
Apple has hired Catherine Monier, recently Yves Saint Laurent Europe President and retail head. 9to5Mac reports that specifically former YSL employee Paul Deneve (now leading Special Projects and reporting to Tim Cook) hired Ms Monier, and she is ...Read more
Roxanne Lowit to publish backstage look at Yves Saint LaurentPage Six, August 4th
Roxanne Lowit, the seminal New York fashion and celebrity photographer who previously published “Backstage Dior,” will launch a new tome of behind-the-scenes photos on Yves Saint Laurent in November. The designer's partner, Pierre Bergé, has penned ...Read more