Diving wristwatches are among the most popular sports watches for collectors and casual wearers alike. Their chunky styling suggests ruggedness and an ability to withstand the elements, which, in fact, a water-resistant watch must do.

It’s not just resistance to water that defines a dive wristwatch—lots of watches can get wet without suffering ill effects. To be classified as a diving wristwatch, the timepiece must function normally at a depth of 100 meters (most modern dive watches are rated for 200-300 meters); its dial must be readable in pitch-black conditions; and it must survive shocks, corrosion from seawater, and exposure to magnetic fields.

The Rolex Oyster of 1926 is considered by many to have been the first waterproof wristwatch, if not the first certified dive wristwatch. The wristwatch was given a serious test (and garnered much publicity) in 1927 when a young stenographer named Mercedes Gleitze wore a Rolex Oyster when she became the first British woman to swim the English Channel...

Omega introduced the Marine in 1932, which was certified to 135 meters in 1937. For some, this is the first true dive wristwatch. Around the same time, Panerai began work on 300 diving wristwatches for the Italian Navy. The Panerai Radiomir, as it was called, featured a Rolex movement and was designed for use by frogmen commandos. Like the Rolex Oysters, the Radiomirs had a cushion-shaped case, and their oiled-leather straps were long enough to be worn on the outside of a diving suit.

The 1940s were also a busy time for Omega. In addition to making watches for the military during World War II, Omega introduced its Chronomètre in 1942. This handsome, highly accurate wristwatch had a silvered dial, Arabic numerals, and black wire hands. Best of all, its stainless-steel case was water-resistant.

Throughout the 1950s and ’60s, Panerai continued to produce wristwatches for the Italian Navy in regular and destro (left-handed) versions. Some watches from this period were known as Trittico watches, thanks to their trio of features, which included a depth gauge.

Panerai also made Kampfschwimmer watches, some with so-called California dials (numbers on the bottom, Roman numerals on the top), for Germany’s only postwar commando unit. And in 1956, Panerai created a large-face Radiomir watch for the Egyptian Navy.

Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced several diving wristwatches in the late 1950s, including the Geophysic Chronometer. Jaeger-LeCoultre also made a waterproof version of the Memovox called the Deep Sea Alarm in 1961. Meanwhile, competitor IWC released its water-resistant Aquatimer in 1967.

Indeed, the 1960s were a vibrant time for dive wristwatches. Doxa came out with the Sub 300T (300 is the number of meters it was rated for), which featured a U.S. Navy air-dive table on its bezel to aid divers. Even more helpful was the wristwatch’s brilliant orange dial, which was designed for divers in dark, potentially life-or-death conditions.

Divers loved the Doxa, which was embraced by U.S., British, French, and Polish naval forces. So successful was the orange-colored dial that Doxa added a few more models, including the silver-dialed Searambler and yellow Divingstar.

But Rolex was not about to give up its status as a key maker of dive wristwatches. One of its most collectible vintage military dive wristwatches is from the 1970s, the Rolex 5517 Submariner, which Rolex produced for the British Royal Navy. Only about 1,200 of these watches were produced, and perhaps only a few hundred of those survived. For serious dive-wristwatch collectors, a 5517 is often the centerpiece of a collection.

About our sources | Got something to add?

▼ Expand to read the full article ▼

Interviews & Articles

Don Levison on Cartier Tanks, Rolex Oysters, and Hamilton Venturas

I got interested in pocket watches from working on mechanical things. I had an old car, and working on it gave me immediate satisf… [more]

Jonathan Snellenburg Ticks off the History of Watches and Clocks

I grew up outside of Philadelphia. I didn’t have any particular interest in clocks or watches as a kid; that came after I started … [more]

Elgins, Patek Philippes, and Other Timeless Wristwatches

I started with pocket watches as a child, watching old movies on television, watching the cowboys occasionally pull out an old poc… [more]



Best of the Web (“Hall of Fame”)

National Watch and Clock Museum

National Watch and Clock Museum

This virtual museum, created by the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors, lets you stroll through tim… [read review or visit site]



Clubs & Associations

Discussion Forums

Other Great Reference Sites

Top eBay Auctions

Showing 60. See all 115 by  highest bidmost watchedcompleted
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Flyback Chronograph 45mm Dive Watch Ref 5085 5085f-1130Jaeger Lecoultre Master Compressor 160t05 Titanium Gmt Men's Diving Watch W/ B&pOmega Seamaster Planet Ocean 42mm Automatic Dive Watch Doxa 1200t Searambler Automatice Dive WatchInvicta Reserve Platinum Mop Swiss Valjoux 7750 Automatic Mens Pro Dive WatchMarathon Gsar Gsa Automatic Dive Watch 300m 2824 Apr 2006Heuer Super Professional 1000 Meters/3600 Feet With Rare Gold Bezel & Dive KitTag Heuer Professional Mens 1500 Ss Dive Watch Wd1214-g-20 Blue SubmarinerTissot Sea Touch Dive Watch Orange W/ BoxPrecista Prs-14 Diving WatchVictorinox Swiss Army Dive Master 500 Mechanical - New - 241355Tag Heuer Professional Mens 1500 Ss Dive Watch Wd1220-d0 Black Gold SubmarinerTag Heuer ~ Professional ~ Mens Stainless Steel 200m Pro Dive Watch ~ Wm1113Rolex Sea-dweller Rail Dial Vintage Automatic Dive Watch Circa 1970sOmega Seamaster Watch 2262.50 Black Professional Midsize Swiss Quartz Bond DiveAtlantic Diving WatchLuminox 8362 Evo Dive Chrono SealNew Mens Victorinox Swiss Army 241264 Dive Master 500 Gunmetal Black Watch $875 Tag Heuer Sel Professional 200m Automatic Gold Plate Men's Diving WatchNew Mens Victorinox Swiss Army 241037 Dive Master 500 Black Dial Watch $595 NrVintage Citizen Aqualand Dive Watch Co23 New!!Victorinox Dive Master 500 241173 Wrist Watch For MenVintage Seiko Automatic 6309-7040 150m Scuba Pro 450 Diver's Watch Custom DiveLatest Citizen 660ft 200m Ecodrive 30 Dive Recorder Computer Watch Jv0020-04eSeiko Men's Sports Scuba Diver Kinetic Wr200m Watch Ska427 Ska427p1Mtm Hawk Watch Sold Out Black Marine Usmc Police Fire Ems Dive Vintage Bulova Snorkel 666 Feet Diver Wrist Watch OceanographerNew Mens Victorinox Swiss Army 241173 Dive Master 500 Blue Dial Watch $595 Diver Watch Soxa By Dagaz Watch Automatic 200m Customized Seiko ScubaGucci Sport Ya126229 G-timeless Dive Black Dial Nylon Strap Men's WatchNew Citizen Eco-drive Bn0090-01e Scuba Fin Green Accent Watch $299Citizen Pro-master/aqualand Scuba Diver's 200m Watch Ctz-6638 (mens) L@@k!!!!!!!Seiko Gents Orange Monster 660ft Professional Scuba Divers Auto Watch Skx781kSeiko Monster Men's 660ft Diver's Self Winding Automatic Scuba Watch Skx779k1 Seiko Men Solar Chronograph Diver's 200m Scuba Steel Watch Ssc017p1Seiko Men Kinetic Capacitor Scuba Diver's Steel Watch 200m Ska369p1New Mens Victorinox Swiss Army 241041 Dive Master Orange Dial Rubber Watch $550Luminox 3001 Navy Seal Dive Date Stainless Pu Mens Wrist Watch Wr 200m NrSeiko Men Kinetic Scuba Diver's Band Watch Ska371 200m Ska371p2Luminox Blackout Navy Seal Dive Watch 3152 Like New $550 MsrpNew Luminox 3901 Men's Navy Seal Series Ii Dive Watch 200 Meter Wrnty Card $335Seiko Monster Men's Automatic Scuba Diver's Wr200m Orange Watch Skx781 Skx781k1Brand New Suunto Gekko Dive Computer In Safaga - Red Sea - Egypt Citizen Promaster Ecodrive 660ft Depth Sensor Dive Computer Watch - Jv0000-02eInvicta Black Ops Commando Dive Watch - Rotating Super Lume Bezel - Bnib $700 Luminox Navy Seal Dive 3050 Wrist Watch For Men, No Reserve!Luminox Mens Dive WatchSeiko Gents Orange Monster 660ft Professional Scuba Divers Auto Watch Skx781kSeiko Gents Orange Monster 660ft Professional Scuba Divers Auto Watch Skx781kHuge Seiko 6309 7040 Ss Mens Dive Watch $1New Mens Victorinox Swiss Army 241174 Dive Master 500 Orange Dial Watch $595 NrSeiko Men's Ssc017 Solar Dive Chronograph Classic Solar Dive Chronograph WatchMen's 3005 Original Navy Seal Dive Watch Brand New Msrp$335Seiko 200m Scuba Divers Auto Men's Watch 7s26-0020, PepsiNew Mens Victorinox Swiss Army 241038 Dive Master 500 Rubber Strap Watch $525Seiko Monster Men's Automatic Scuba Diver's Wr200m Watch Skx779 Skx779k Skx779k1Seiko Men Automatic Diver's Scuba Band Watch 200m Skx781k3Seiko Men's Ssc017 Solar Dive Chronograph Classic Solar Dive Chronograph WatchSeiko Skx007 Scuba Big Diver Mod 7s26 W/*tri-color Plongeur & Lollipop Ss Hands!Victorinox Swiss Army Dive Master 500, 241174, Orange Dial