Founded in 1905 as Wilsdorf and Davis, the company that would become Rolex has British and Swiss roots. It was established in London as an importer of Swiss Aegler wristwatch movements, which Wilsdorf and Davis inserted into cases and sold to jewelers, who would then put their store name on the dial. The word "Rolex" was trademarked in 1908 so that Wilsdorf and Davis would have a name of their own to put on some of these watches.
It is not precisely clear where the word "Rolex" came from. Most authorities say the name derives from horlogerie exquise, which is French for "exquisite watch making." Others, including wristwatch collector Jeff Hess, believe the name was simply made up.
And then there’s the story of how Hans Wilsdorf’s partner and brother-in-law, Alfred Davis, wanted his watches to have the quality of a Rolls Royce and the ubiquity of a Timex. Borrowing the beginning and end of those two venerable brands, Davis created a new one of his own, or so the legend goes.
Whatever its origins, the name stuck, but wristwatches were still a curiosity at the beginning of the 20th century. To gain the public’s trust, Aegler had its movements tested by timing laboratories in Bienne, while Wilsdorf and Davis did the same at the Kew Observatory in England. In 1914, the movement was awarded a Class A Certificate, Kew’s first chronometer rating for a wristwatch.
In 1920, Rolex relocated to Geneva, where it remains headquartered to this day. But the major event of the 1920s for the growing company was the introduction of the Rolex Oyster in 1926. This waterproof wristwatch was given a serious test (and garnered much publicity) a year later when a young stenographer named Mercedes Gleitze wore a Rolex Oyster when she became the first British woman to swim the English Channel.
The vintage Oysters from the late 1920s and throughout the 1930s are among the most collectible Rolexes on the market today. Especially rare is the original Oyster from 1926, with its classic cushion-shape case, and the first Rolex Oyster Perpetual, a self-winding wristwatch developed in 1931.
Other vintage Oysters to look for are the Piccolinos from the 1930s, the "bubble-back" models from the 1940s, the cloisonné-dial watches from the 1950s, and the commemorative Rolex Oyster Observatory Chronometer "Kew A" Certificate from 1953...
Another Rolex watch model to gain prominence in the late 1920s and throughout the 1930s was the Prince, a slender, rectangular dress watch with cases made of sterling silver and various combinations of pink, white, and yellow gold — the striped cases are particularly handsome.
After the war, in 1945, Rolex celebrated its 40th anniversary with the Datejust, the first self-winding chronometer to show the date in a window on the dial. The 1950s brought the Submariner (1953) and GMT (1954) lines, the latter a favorite of Pan Am pilots and test pilot Chuck Yeager. The Explorer also appeared in the 1950s — its most famous customer was Sir Edmund Hillary, who wore a Rolex Explorer when he summited Mt. Everest in 1953.
Finally, in 1961, Rolex introduced its Cosmograph Daytona line to mark the 24 Hours of Daytona race (Rolex was one of the race’s sponsors). The most collectible watches in this vintage Rolex line are the so-called Paul Newman Daytonas, whose sub-dials are in a contrasting color from the main dial, and whose sub-dial faces feature blocks instead of lines to mark unnumbered minutes and decorative crosshairs at their centers. Paul Newman Daytonas can be further verified by making sure they have any of the following Reference numbers: 6239, 6241, 6262, 6263, 6264, or 6265.
Key terms for Vintage Rolex Wristwatches:
Chronometer: A watch that has been certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute not to lose more than four seconds per day, nor to gain more than six.
Cloisonné: A technique in which filaments of metal (often gold or copper) are soldered to a surface to create compartments that are then filled with ground enamel, fired, and polished.
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Jason Statham almost drowned on setCastanet.net, April 18th
Naya, who plays sexy lesbian Santana on the hit show, has had a rough month after calling time on her relationship with Big Sean, accusing her ex of taking an expensive Rolex watch from her house because he is jealous of her success. ... The 39-year...Read more
Aaron Faber Gallery Plans Special Events for Brides & GroomsRapaport, April 18th
Alishan Halebian of jewelry house Alishan will present his latest collection of rough diamond bridal jewelry to help the man in love find the perfect expression of that love as Aaron Faber Gallery exhibits an intriguing collection of vintage and...Read more
Three vintage Rolexes we hope new CEO Jean-Frederic Dufour brings backGQ.com, April 17th
All of which begs the question: as a brand that believes very much in evolution over revolution, what changes might Mr Dufour have in mind for Rolex? And would/could he conceive of a similarly historical element to the ever-changing, never-changing...Read more
Lady Gaga getting engaged?Castanet.net, April 17th
Naya, who plays sexy lesbian Santana on the hit show, has had a rough month after calling time on her relationship with Big Sean, accusing her ex of taking an expensive Rolex watch from her house because he is jealous of her success. In a tweet which...Read more
Original Owner Rolex Ref 6263 “Paul Newman” Sells for $ 231750Perpetuelle.com (blog), April 11th
Highlighting Antiquorum's auction of “Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces” this past Wednesday, April 9th in New York was a Rolex Ref. 6263 Paul Newman in Steel [lot 289] with its iconic “panda” dial. The rare chronograph inspired a passionate ...Read more
Internet revolutionises vintage watch collectors' worldFinancial Times, March 26th
Rolex specialist Eric Ku is based in Los Angeles, while another American vintage Rolex seller, Andrew Shear, works in New York. Andrea Foffi and Marlon DeSimone are both well-respected dealers located in Italy, a centre of vintage watch collecting...Read more
Singer John Mayer Sues Watch Dealer Over Alleged Counterfeit RolexesJewelers Circular Keystone Online, March 25th
The Grammy-winning singer and oft-touted watch connoisseur has sued timepiece dealer Bob Maron, alleging his Thousand Oaks, Calif., boutique sold him seven vintage Rolexes with counterfeit parts. According to the suit, filed March 18 in Los Angeles ...Read more
John Mayer and Jennifer Aniston Relationship: Did Katy Perry's Ex Give the ...Latin Post, March 20th
The "Your Body Is a Wonderland" singer, who apparently is a watch collector, spent a total of $5 million on what he believed to be a vintage Rolex watch from Robert Maron back in 2007. However, Mayer discovered that his timepiece was not authentic...Read more