The Swiss company that became Patek Philippe was founded in 1839. One of the company’s two founding partners, Antoine Norbert de Patek, met French watch maker Adrien Philippe in 1844 during a presentation of Philippe’s pioneering stem-winding system. In 1845, Patek’s partner decided to strike out on his own and in 1851, Patek Philippe & Cie was born.
From the beginning, Patek Philippe made some of the most complicated — and beautiful — watches ever produced. Fastidious records have been kept on every watch the company has made, so that modern-day collectors can request the repair history of any antique or vintage Patek Philippe watch before making a purchase.
Significantly, the company’s first wristwatch was also Switzerland’s first wristwatch. It was made in 1868 and sold to the Countess Koscowicz of Hungary in 1876. Ornate and clunky by contemporary standards, it was wound with a key and resembled a triptych, with the watch framed by two diamond-and-gold encrusted panels on either side. Patek Philippe has been a luxury brand ever since.
By the end of the 19th century, the technical quality of Patek Philippe watches began to be codified. In 1886, the micromechanical engineering and hand finishing of the firm’s wristwatch movements were awarded the prestigious Geneva Seal. Numerous patents followed, including one for a "split-seconds chronograph" in 1902.
Patek Philippe’s first complicated ladies’ wristwatch appeared in 1916. It had a five-minute repeater. In 1922-23, Patek Philippe created the first split-seconds chronograph wristwatch and in 1925 it introduced its first wristwatch with a perpetual calendar.
The 1920s was a vibrant decade for Patek Philippe. Some of its most sought-after antique watches are from this period, including the Officer Gondolo wristwatch from 1920, a perpetual-calendar wristwatch with moon phases in 1925, a repeater in 1926, and a square version of the handsome Gondolo in 1928.
Despite the Great Depression and new owners in 1932, innovation continued through the 1930s. The rectangular Reverso, whose face could be reversed as its name suggests, was produced in 1932, but it took more than a decade for the curiosity to find a buyer. The extra-large, "Staybrite" steel Doctor’s wristwatch arrived in 1937. As for the Calatrava, which is today considered one of the company’s flagship lines, it began in 1932, with new Calatravas added throughout the decade...
In 1941, Patek Philippe began regular production of its perpetual-calendar wristwatches — today these vintage Patek Philippes are highly prized by collectors. By the middle of the decade, a wristwatch named for Duke Ellington appeared. Edward Kennedy Ellington himself purchased one in 1948, though why the legendary jazzman needed a water-resistant wristwatch with a split-second chronograph and a tachometer can only be imagined.
Patek Philippe filed numerous patents for self-winding mechanisms in the mid-1950s (a self-winder from 1955 with a black enamel dial and labeled "Ref. 2526" is especially handsome). Patents were also filed in 1959 and 1962 for time-zone watches. The end of the 1950s saw the introduction of a prototype for a digital wristwatch; the late 1960s heralded the launch of the first model in the popular Ellipse collection ("Ref. 3548").
Concurrently, from the late 1940s until about 1960, Patek Philippe produced a number of wristwatches with cloisonné dials to take advantage of the abundance of enamel painters who were working in Geneva at that time. Subjects included maps (Geneva and its lake, the world, the Americas, Eurasia), sports figures (a tennis player, a polo player), and odes to nature (a rain forest, palm trees).
Another popular Patek Philippe series are the vintage, asymmetrical wristwatches of the 1950s and 1960s. Designed by Gilbert Albert, these post-war timepieces are distinctly Swiss riffs on the Mid-century Modern aesthetic of the day.
Key terms for Antique and Vintage Patek Philippe Wristwatches:
Chronograph: A watch that also records time intervals, like a stopwatch.
Cloisonné: A technique in which filaments of metal (often gold or copper) are soldered to a surface to create compartments that are then filled with ground enamel, fired, and polished.
Complication: A complicated watch is one that displays more than just hours, minutes, and seconds. Complications include an annual calendar and time zones. So-called "grand" complications include watches with moon phases, chronographs and split-seconds chronographs, and sky charts.
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A visit to Meertz World of Time in MunichClassic Driver, July 21st
Ralf Meertz measures the value of a watch by its originality and condition. Prices for vintage watches, straight from brands such as Patek Philippe and Rolex, are known to reach dizzying heights but, for Meertz, their condition plays a central role...Read more
Men who buy expensive watches are stupidTelegraph.co.uk, July 21st
I was musing along these lines when a watch supplement fell out of the magazine I was reading. You know, one of those high-end brochures full of lines like, “You never actually own a Patek Philippe, you merely look after it for the next generation...Read more
The classic arts meet the watchmakersWorld Tempus, July 20th
The first to advocate the traditional rare handcrafts relating to watchmaking, Patek Philippe has never ceased cultivating these skills and developing dedicated collections, even when some where predicting their extinction. The 2014 vintage comprises a...Read more
Commentary: Spain, a glimpse of the future?The Statehouse File, July 20th
Commentary button in JPG - no shadow A few people stop to look in the window of the jewelry store, which has Rolexes, Omegas and Patek Phillipe watches on display. The store is one of at least a half-dozen within a few blocks that sell $10,000 watches...Read more
World's most complicated hand-made watch for saleThe Canberra Times, July 15th
The Henry Graves Supercomplication Patek Philippe. Picture: Sotheby's. “The list of superlatives which can be attached to this icon of the 20th century is truly extraordinary,” auction house Sotheby's says, describing it as “indisputably the Holy Grail...Read more
Patek Philippe's magic numbersTelegraph.co.uk, July 14th
Patek Philippe watches come by numbers, save for the likes of the Star Calibre. The cognoscenti don't bother with names – even Patek is less than clear about quite which watch is a Calatrava and which isn't. It's the four-digit reference, quite often...Read more
Patek Philippe Supercomplication Pocket Watch Could Sell For Over $16 Million!GTspirit, July 13th
The following watch, the Patek Philippe Supercomplication is likely to break its own record as one of the world's most expensive watches when it goes up for sale in November. The watch was originally created by Patek Philippe specifically for...Read more
Bet on China? This luxury retailer says no hurryCNBC.com, July 10th
While global high-end brands are stepping up the battle for Asia's burgeoning luxury shoppers, Geneva-based watch manufacturer Patek Philippe prefers to keep things slow. "We don't want to put all our eggs in the same basket so we are very careful not...Read more