Common as they are today, wristwatches are a relatively new entry into the world of timepieces. In fact, as recently as the early decades of the 20th century, men considered wristwatches too effeminate, instead favoring traditional pocket watches. While a variety of factors helped shift consumer tastes, Gruen did more than perhaps any other watch company to make the wristwatch popular.

D. Gruen & Son was founded in 1894 by Dietrich Gruen and his son, Fred; Dietrich had previously founded the Columbus Watch Manufacturing Company in Columbus, Ohio, in 1876, but left in 1894 when the company went bankrupt. In 1900, D. Gruen & Son became D. Gruen, Sons & Company when George Gruen, Dietrich’s other son, joined the firm.

At first, Gruen imported movements from Switzerland, which the company finished with cases and then sold. In its early years, Gruen sold only pocket watches, but even then the company emphasized size and comfort for the user—while other companies were making big, heavy 18-size watches, Gruen manufactured smaller 16-size watches, and later 12-size watches. This approach quickly led to the first Gruen watch of many that would change the market.

Gruen released the VeriThin in 1904. By rearranging pieces of the watch movement, Gruen managed to make a watch that was only about 7 mm thick—a third thinner than most other watches—while still meeting railroad watch precision standards, the most exacting accuracy tests of the time. Unlike most other companies, Gruen sold its watches as complete, finished products, rather than as pieces to be assembled by a jeweler.

In 1908, Gruen released its first wristwatches for men and women. From the start, women’s wristwatches sold much better, beginning with a convertible model. This wristwatch was shaped just like a pocket watch but had detachable straps. Thus, women could wear it as a wristwatch, as a pocket watch, on a chain, or in a number of other ways.

At the time, men generally preferred more rugged, precise pocket watches. World War I, however, changed that. Down in the trenches or on a plane, soldiers realized that wristwatches were much more practical and convenient than pocket watches.

Gruen and other companies manufactured both wristwatches and pocket watches for the military, but it was careful to call wristwatches “strap watches” in order to avoid any femini...

The 1910s saw a few notable changes for Gruen: Dietrich Gruen died in 1911, and the company broke ground on its own Swiss-style movement factory in Cincinnati, later to be called “Time Hill.”

Wristwatches became more popular in the 1920s, especially with women. In 1921, Gruen released the Cartouche for ladies, the first wristwatch featuring a movement designed specifically for this new form of timepiece. Previously, wristwatches had round pocket-watch movements, which largely dictated the shape of the case. The Cartouche movement, on the other hand, was rectangular, which allowed a sleeker wristwatch design. The Cartouche was successful, far ahead of its time.

In 1924, Gruen released a watch to commemorate the 50th anniversary of Dietrich Gruen’s patent for an improved movement piece. This pocket watch featured a movement of solid gold and always came in a luxurious case. Only 600 were made—one for each month of the 50 years—and the exquisite quality of these watches helped Gruen build its reputation.

The following year, Gruen began selling the Quadron, a men’s wristwatch similar in design to the women’s Cartouche. The Quadron was the first wristwatch in the market to be as accurate as a high-quality pocket watch, and its precision helped Gruen market the Quadron as a “manly,” reliable timepiece.

Gruen continued to influence the market later in the decade when it released the Techni-Quadron in 1928, one of the first “doctor’s watches” (so-called because the watch’s separate second-hand dial made it easy for a doctor to take a patient’s pulse). Gruen continued to make doctor’s watches into the mid-’40s, as well as nurse’s watches.

In the 1930s, Gruen managed to weather the Depression. Not coincidentally, many of the companies that failed to survive had not entered the wristwatch market. Gruen, on the other hand, released one of its most successful wristwatches in 1935, the Curvex. This watch utilized a patented curved movement design, which allowed for a bigger, and therefore more accurate, movement inside. The sleek design curved around the wearer’s wrist and was quickly a hit.

Curved wristwatches became more and more popular, largely due to the Curvex. In 1937, Gruen released its Ristside and Curvex-Ristside wristwatches, men’s watches that Gruen marketed as “driver’s watches.” In this peculiar design, the watch’s face sat not on top of the wearer’s wrist, but next to his thumb. This design allowed the wearer to check the time while driving without removing his hand from the steering wheel. While these watches were not hugely successful at the time, they are extremely rare and collectible today.

With World War II, Gruen switched to wartime manufacturing, making instruments and dials for the military. Government contracts gave the company good business, but because American watch companies were prohibited from making watches during wartime, Swiss companies began to enter the American market.

These changes set the stage for Gruen’s decline. In 1945, Fred Gruen died, and his brother George passed away soon after, in 1952. The following year, the Gruen family had sold its interests in the company. Although 1953 was Gruen’s best in terms of sales, the company had lost its direction. Faced with debt, anti-trust lawsuits, and more, Gruen fell apart.

By 1958, Gruen was divided up and parceled out. Unfortunately for collectors, its new owners destroyed all of the company’s pre-1958 factory paperwork, wiping out all records of serial numbers, production dates, quantities, and other valuable data.

About our sources | Got something to add?

▼ Expand to read the full article ▼

Best of the Web (“Hall of Fame”)

Gruen: The Art and Mystery of Watchmaking

Gruen: The Art and Mystery of Watchmaking

Paul Schliesser's elegant site offers a comprehensive history of the Gruen Watch Company of Ohio. The easy-to-navig… [read review or visit site]

National Watch and Clock Museum

National Watch and Clock Museum

This virtual museum, created by the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors, lets you stroll through tim… [read review or visit site]



Clubs & Associations

Discussion Forums

Other Great Reference Sites

Most watched eBay auctions    

Mens 1940s Gruen 14k Solid Rose Gold Veri-thin Precision 430 Caliber Deco Watch Mens Gruen 1930s Long & Curved 500 Caliber 10k Yellow Gold Filled Art Deco WatchCustom 14k Rose Gold Diamond Ruby Fancy Gruen Precision Lady Wrist Watch NrLadies Vintage Watches,longines Bulova Gruen Elgin Bucherer Waltham Cyma TriceVintage Gruen Guildcraft 1960's Mens Divers Watch Swiss 17 Jewel Manual MovementMens Nice 1950s Gruen Auto-wind 14k Solid Gold Automatic Fancy Case Swiss WatchLarge Lot 26 Vintage Watches Waltham Hamilton Seiko Lord Elgin Gruen Jump HourLarge Lot 68 Vintage Mens Watches Waltham Hamilton Seiko Bulova Elgin GruenLarge Lot 24 Vintage Watches Waltham Hamilton Lord Elgin Gruen Wittnauer BulovaFancy Bezel Vintage 1940s Gruen Super Art Deco Mens Dress Watch Swiss 17 Jewel!Very Rare Vintage Gruen Precision 17 Jewel Automatic Full 24hr Pilots WatchVintage Gruen White 14k Gf Black Enamel Top Bezel Watch Vintage Gold Fd Large Antique Art Deco Gruen Curvex Mens Watch ... Nr1940 Gruen Men's Wristwatch 17 Jewels Caliber 210 10k Gold Filled Bezel RunsGent's Vintage 10kt Gf Gruen 17 Jewel Copper Dial Wristwatch-parts Or RepairVintage Mens Gruen Curvex Diamond Dial 370 Cal Runs But Stops RepairLot Of 3 Mens Vintage Wristwatches - Gruen - Benrus - WalthamVintage Gruen Precision Watch Rose Gold Color Autowind W/ DateVintage Gruen Precision 17 Jewel 415 10k Rgp & S/s Horn Lug Watch...runningVintage Gruen Curvex 440 17j Men's Long Curved Watch 1940 Copper Color DialGruen Bergio Swiss Diamond Mens Watch-brown Face-ip Gold St Steel-msrp $1,259.00Vintage - Now Junk Drawer Watch Lot 7lbs Seiko Gruen Sheffeild Pulsar Benrus Vtg Lot 12 Ladies Wrist Watches Bulova Accutron/helbros/gruen/cort/w&wfor RepairVintage Men's 10k Rolled Gold Plate Gruen Precision Waterproof Manual Wind WatchVintage Gruen Precision 17 Jewel Wind Men's Wrist Watch 415-966 Runs 10 K RgpVintage Gold Fd Large Antique Art Deco Gruen Mens Watch ... Nr9 Vintage Winding Watches For Refurbishing Or Parts Waltham Gruen Elgin ...Lecoultre, Omega, Zodiac, Gruen Curvex & Longines Automatic Ladies Quality Ww MvLot Of 68 Watch Movements-15 & 16 Jewels-elgin-bulova-benrus-gruen-walthamGruen Mens Precision Curvex 370 17 Jewel 10k Gold Filled Wrist Watch No BandLot Of 3 Vintage Men's Hand Winding Watches - Gruen Benrus CalvertLot Of 23 Vintage Ladies Watches Seiko Timex Gruen Gucci Moon Phase More!Lot Of 3 Vintage Men's Hand Winding Watches - Gruen Benrus GothamGruen Swiss Men’s Mechanical Wristwatch Movements, One Curvex. 115rVintage Lot Of 5 Wristwatches Seiko,citron,gruen,& Timex Mens Watches !!!!70 + Or 7.5 Pounds Men's Buckle Wrist Watch Bands Bulova, Pulsar, Gruen + GoodGruen Precision Alarm Watch5 Vintage Ladies Mechanical Wristwatches - Gruen, Bulova,10k Gf - For RepairVintage Beautiful Gruen Lady W/watch Scarab Bettle Band 60s Vtg Gruen Autowind Swiss Men's Watch, Working Vintage Flashy 10k Gold Filled Gruen Curvex Precision Watch 440 498 17 JewelsVintage * Gruen Precision* Automatic 10k Gold Filled 25 Jewel Mens Watch *runs*Gruen Swiss Automatic 25 Jewels Men's Wristwatch Recently Serviced Nice!!Gruen Veri Thin Running Movement W/ Beautiful Engraved Floral DialVintage Gruen Precision 17 Jewel 34mm Round Gold Tone Wrist Watch Model N510rVintage Gruen Curvex *marshall *men`s Watch......................not WorkingVintage Gruen Precision Curvex 370 Rare Wristwatch Estate Vintage Gruen Precision Wrist Watch Dual Dial Hand Winding *runs*Vintage Gruen 14k Pink Gold Filled Curvex Precision Gents Wristwatch/timepiece Vintage Gruen Eclipso Purse WatchVery Nice Solid 14k Gold 50's/60's Vintage Gruen 23j Automatic10 Lot Vintage Lady Manual Wind Mechanical Watch For Repair Bulova Milos GruenWristwatches Whole Tray Lot Gruen,timex Westclox,caravelle Seiko& JurgensonGruen Curvex Precision Wrist Watch 14k Yellow Gold Mechanical Wind Up VintageGruen Curvex Rose Gold Watch Gr0079Vintage Gruen Curvex Precision Gold Filled Mans WatchHuge Lot 85 Pcs Watchmaker Repair Parts As976 Gruen Swiss Watch Springs Wheels +Approximately 12 Size, Gruen, Semi-thin Movement,Lot Of Complete Vintage Benrus & Gruen Wrist Watch Mechanical Movements Antique 1920's Gruen Quadron 14k Gold Filled Mens Wrist Watch Cal.157 - Original