Common as they are today, wristwatches are a relatively new entry into the world of timepieces. In fact, as recently as the early decades of the 20th century, men considered wristwatches too effeminate, instead favoring traditional pocket watches. While a variety of factors helped shift consumer tastes, Gruen did more than perhaps any other watch company to make the wristwatch popular.

D. Gruen & Son was founded in 1894 by Dietrich Gruen and his son, Fred; Dietrich had previously founded the Columbus Watch Manufacturing Company in Columbus, Ohio, in 1876, but left in 1894 when the company went bankrupt. In 1900, D. Gruen & Son became D. Gruen, Sons & Company when George Gruen, Dietrich’s other son, joined the firm.

At first, Gruen imported movements from Switzerland, which the company finished with cases and then sold. In its early years, Gruen sold only pocket watches, but even then the company emphasized size and comfort for the user—while other companies were making big, heavy 18-size watches, Gruen manufactured smaller 16-size watches, and later 12-size watches. This approach quickly led to the first Gruen watch of many that would change the market.

Gruen released the VeriThin in 1904. By rearranging pieces of the watch movement, Gruen managed to make a watch that was only about 7 mm thick—a third thinner than most other watches—while still meeting railroad watch precision standards, the most exacting accuracy tests of the time. Unlike most other companies, Gruen sold its watches as complete, finished products, rather than as pieces to be assembled by a jeweler.

In 1908, Gruen released its first wristwatches for men and women. From the start, women’s wristwatches sold much better, beginning with a convertible model. This wristwatch was shaped just like a pocket watch but had detachable straps. Thus, women could wear it as a wristwatch, as a pocket watch, on a chain, or in a number of other ways.

At the time, men generally preferred more rugged, precise pocket watches. World War I, however, changed that. Down in the trenches or on a plane, soldiers realized that wristwatches were much more practical and convenient than pocket watches.

Gruen and other companies manufactured both wristwatches and pocket watches for the military, but it was careful to call wristwatches “strap watches” in order to avoid any femini...

The 1910s saw a few notable changes for Gruen: Dietrich Gruen died in 1911, and the company broke ground on its own Swiss-style movement factory in Cincinnati, later to be called “Time Hill.”

Wristwatches became more popular in the 1920s, especially with women. In 1921, Gruen released the Cartouche for ladies, the first wristwatch featuring a movement designed specifically for this new form of timepiece. Previously, wristwatches had round pocket-watch movements, which largely dictated the shape of the case. The Cartouche movement, on the other hand, was rectangular, which allowed a sleeker wristwatch design. The Cartouche was successful, far ahead of its time.

In 1924, Gruen released a watch to commemorate the 50th anniversary of Dietrich Gruen’s patent for an improved movement piece. This pocket watch featured a movement of solid gold and always came in a luxurious case. Only 600 were made—one for each month of the 50 years—and the exquisite quality of these watches helped Gruen build its reputation.

The following year, Gruen began selling the Quadron, a men’s wristwatch similar in design to the women’s Cartouche. The Quadron was the first wristwatch in the market to be as accurate as a high-quality pocket watch, and its precision helped Gruen market the Quadron as a “manly,” reliable timepiece.

Gruen continued to influence the market later in the decade when it released the Techni-Quadron in 1928, one of the first “doctor’s watches” (so-called because the watch’s separate second-hand dial made it easy for a doctor to take a patient’s pulse). Gruen continued to make doctor’s watches into the mid-’40s, as well as nurse’s watches.

In the 1930s, Gruen managed to weather the Depression. Not coincidentally, many of the companies that failed to survive had not entered the wristwatch market. Gruen, on the other hand, released one of its most successful wristwatches in 1935, the Curvex. This watch utilized a patented curved movement design, which allowed for a bigger, and therefore more accurate, movement inside. The sleek design curved around the wearer’s wrist and was quickly a hit.

Curved wristwatches became more and more popular, largely due to the Curvex. In 1937, Gruen released its Ristside and Curvex-Ristside wristwatches, men’s watches that Gruen marketed as “driver’s watches.” In this peculiar design, the watch’s face sat not on top of the wearer’s wrist, but next to his thumb. This design allowed the wearer to check the time while driving without removing his hand from the steering wheel. While these watches were not hugely successful at the time, they are extremely rare and collectible today.

With World War II, Gruen switched to wartime manufacturing, making instruments and dials for the military. Government contracts gave the company good business, but because American watch companies were prohibited from making watches during wartime, Swiss companies began to enter the American market.

These changes set the stage for Gruen’s decline. In 1945, Fred Gruen died, and his brother George passed away soon after, in 1952. The following year, the Gruen family had sold its interests in the company. Although 1953 was Gruen’s best in terms of sales, the company had lost its direction. Faced with debt, anti-trust lawsuits, and more, Gruen fell apart.

By 1958, Gruen was divided up and parceled out. Unfortunately for collectors, its new owners destroyed all of the company’s pre-1958 factory paperwork, wiping out all records of serial numbers, production dates, quantities, and other valuable data.

About our sources | Got something to add?

▼ Expand to read the full article ▼

Best of the Web (“Hall of Fame”)

Gruen: The Art and Mystery of Watchmaking

Gruen: The Art and Mystery of Watchmaking

Paul Schliesser's elegant site offers a comprehensive history of the Gruen Watch Company of Ohio. The easy-to-navig… [read review or visit site]

National Watch and Clock Museum

National Watch and Clock Museum

This virtual museum, created by the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors, lets you stroll through tim… [read review or visit site]



Clubs & Associations

Discussion Forums

Other Great Reference Sites

Most watched eBay auctions    

Lot 18 Vintage Mens Watches-bulova-bucherer-elgin-benrus-gruen......parts/repairVintage Stainless Steel Gruen Triple Date Caliber 415ca,serviced Nice Watch !!! Vintage Gruen Precision Autowind 17 Jewels Man's Swiss Watch (serviced)Elegant Era Art Deco Gruen 14k White Gold Diamond Set Ladies Wrist Watch Nr MthNo Reserve: 1950s Gruen Curvex -orig Crystal/dial- Serviced Vintage 10kygf WatchVintage Gruen Precision Automatic Date Roll Gold Steel Mens WatchVintage Gruen Precision Alarm 17 Jewel 950 Ss Men's Watch For Repair....runningWomens 37 Quartz Watch Lot All Working Well.some Wear,seiko Fossil Gruen CitizenVintage Gruen Veri-thin Men's Wristwatch 15 Jewels Caliber 411 RunsIntriguing Vintage 50s Gruen Automatic "switzerland" Rare Brown Honeycomb DialPrecious Art Deco Gruen Curvex Diamonds Men's Watch, All 14k Solid White Gold Vintage Lot 6 Ladies Manual Wind Watches 5 Tick Bulova Gruen Benrus Lewis!Gruen Swiss Gsm014 Two Tone Automatic 25 Jewels Men's WatchLot Of 6 Vintage Mens Wrist Watches/gruen Veri-thin,benrus,bulova 17j & More Vintage Watch Lot Of 6 Men's Manual Wind Watches, Waltham Military, Gruen, MoreVintage Gruen Curvex Cal.370 17 Jewel 10k Gold Filled Curved Men's WatchLot Of 15 Watches Vintage To Modern Gruen Fossil Frondini K. Cole Citizen GenevaLot Of Dial Movements & More - Wittnauer/mollystark/bulova/elgin/gruen & MoreVintage Lot Of ** Various Watch Parts Etc. ** Waltham Seiko Gruen Huge Watch Lot Estate Vintage Waltham Gruen Buren Brighton Delphi ViiiVintage Gruen Veri Thin Mens Manual Wrist Watch Needs Help - Great 24 Hour DialVintage Mechanical Watch Lot, Gruen Benrus ChromaticLot Of 66 Vintage Ladies Wristwatch Movements - Bulova, Hamilton, Elgin, Gruen +Vintage Mens Gruen WristwatchVintage Gruen Curvex 45mm Gold Filled Wrist Watch Nr4pc Vintage Ladies Wristwatch Lot Gruen Veri-thin, Viva Record W, Mohawk, ElginGruen Precision Curvex Swiss Ladies 10k Gf 17j Manual Wind Wrist Watch-runningLot Of 55 Vintage Ladies Wristwatch Movements - Bulova, Hamilton, Elgin, Gruen +Gruen Model 330 Curvex Wristswatches Mvt. 60fLot Of 11 Vintage Ladies Wristwatches - Bulova, Gruen, Hamilton, Wittnauer +Gruen Vintage Alarm Wrist Watch No ReserveVintage Gruen Curvex Precision Art Deco Rose Watch Gold Filled/original BoxVintage Watch Lot Jump Hour Citizen Moonphase Gruen Seiko Sheffield DiveEarly 40's Vintage Gruen 17j Precision Watch. 14k Gf Reinforced W/ Extra Gold.Lot Of 44 Vintage Ladies Wristwatch Movements - Bulova, Hamilton, Elgin, Gruen +Vintage Gruen Precision Extra 17j Mdl 119 Wrist Watch Mvt For Parts, RepairVintage Gruen Guild 15 Jewels Wrist Watch - Works! 14k Gold Filled CaseVintage Mens Gruen 17 Jwl Mechanical Movement Watch 10k Gold Filled Bezel #152zVintage Men's Gruen Precision Black Dial Mechanical Wristwatch, Working NrVintage Gruen Precision Veri-thin All Orginal And Running No ReserveWristwatches 2 Ladies, Gruen And Bulova Fancy Cases Vintage Pieces No Reserve Lot Of 15 Vintage Womens Watch, Lot 54, Gold Filled, Gruen,lachman,etc,etc,Lot Women's Vintage Gold Filled Watches 10kgf Etc Bulova Hamilton Gruen DeltaVintage Rare Gruen Curvex Precision 17 Jewel 370 Cal. 41mm, Gf Case Wrist Watch.Vintage Gruen Curvex Precision 17j Mdl 370 10k White Gf Antique Wrist WatchVintage Pink Gold Fd Large Antique Art Deco Gruen Curvex Mens Watch ... NrVintage Gruen Veri-thin Men's Wristwatch 15 Jewels 10k Gold Filled Bezel RunsVintage Early Gruen Lcq Lcd Digital Quartz Wrist Watch Runs 1951 Vintage Gruen Curvex 370 17j Elegant Curved Dress Watch Swiss 10k Gf 10 Piece Miscellaneous Watch Lot No Bands- Waltham Gruen Helbros..(auct G-1)Vintage Gruen 10k Gf Veri-thin Precision 17 Jewel Mens Watch 425 Parts/repairVintage Gruen Precision Autowind Self-winding Gold Finish Men's Wristwatch - NrLadies Elgin & Gruen Art Deco 14k Gold Filled Watches Wear/repair/parts LotVintage Swiss Gruen Autowind Automatic Precision Wrist Watch Running ConditionVintage Lot Movements Dials, Gruen,seiko,bulova,gruen,robot,longines,elgin,benruMen's Watches Technos Gruen Terner Armitron Seiko 6 Watches7 Nos Gruen Mens Wrist Watch Dials Parts Repair Steampunk L-544Mens Vintage Gruen 410c 10k Gf 17j Mechanical Wristwatch,runs,37mmVintage Longines Zodiac Eterna Mido Roamer Gruen Case Backs Huge LotMen's Embassy By Gruen Watch